cdelena

It appears I have blown the rear main seal (detailed in a previous post https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/109...on-fluid-leak/) which only leaks an ounce or so every 10 miles so I am slowly getting mentally prepared to pull the trans (again, sigh) to replace it. It doesn't look that hard but I am open to learning from your experience.

The Honda seal driver that I have been advised to use costs 8 times the seal cost so I am looking to buy used or borrow one. Is there any alternative?

Any advice on this job?

AZfury

Take a rubber mallet and equally push the seal on by hitting it in 8 different spots, I do it all the time

MM3Kwolik

I made one out of a 4" PVC end cap and ground down all the edges so it would clear the housing. Works perfect and only costs around 3$.

cdelena

It was explained to me that the tool presses to the exact depth which is the only important install spec. Maybe this is not as difficult or critical as I was led to believe. Do you do any measurement or do you just try to get it flush?

MM3Kwolik

Only reason to have the "special tool" is to make sure it's fully installed. The special driver will help ensure the seal sits below the surface of the block and girdle. (Tapping it flush with a mallet doesn't install the seal as far as it should be into the housing)

I've done somewhere around 20 seals with my homemade "driver" and have had zero failures or leaks. It's really not rocket science.

V6 Donut

this is what I do, and haven't had any hickups or problems.

cdelena

Now that I have the trans out I see that the leak is not the seal which looks fine but the mating at the back of the oil pan just a few inches below the main seal. I guess high rpm with a clogged PCV valve finds the weakest seal and in this case it was 10+ year old seal done when the banjo bolts were replaced. I was at near 9K rpm going up a mountain road when the bond let loose but I am guessing it was the pressure not the upward slant.

So clearly the immediate fix is dropping, cleaning and re-bonding the oil pan. I am guessing that Honda UltraFlange is the way to go (not available back when I did the bolts). Any pan / RTV tips on redoing this?

Since the main seal looks good I am tempted to just leave it alone... is there any real reason to replace it even though I can right now. What is the failure rate on this part?

I hate this job of pulling the transmission on jackstands so I want to do whatever to avoid doing it again so I am open to comments.

V6 Donut

if you hate the job then yes, I would just replace it anyways. why do it twice for a $30 seal.

As for the oil pan I haven't had to replace the seal on my S. If I were to though I would use Permetex Grey or HondaBond. Smooth even lines around the pan are the best.

AZfury

Ultra flange or honda bond only

Billman250

Make a very tiny diameter bead (only needs to be 1/16") and run it inside the bolt holes. Not in the holes, but on the oil side of the holes. The service manual has an exact picture of where to run the bead.

Make sure block is clean and ready, you'll want to install within 2 min of running the bead.

Make sure the two dowels are in place.