Rear Knuckle, Hub and Bearing Removal/Replacement
#52
Originally Posted by hecash,Jun 18 2006, 08:16 AM
Assuming that we are talking about an outboard CV joint, I think that it's in the $230 range. You ought to add a boot kit, bands (don't forget to get or borrow a banding tool) and lube totaling another, say, $40 all-in.
Call the Hardtop Guy for a more accurate price.
HardtopGuy.com +1 (216) 749-6989
Ask for Jeff or Joe.
Call the Hardtop Guy for a more accurate price.
HardtopGuy.com +1 (216) 749-6989
Ask for Jeff or Joe.
Can't I reuse the bands?
I already swapped the inner joints and reused them, just used plyers to get them off and on again. Are these different?
#55
Well I just pulled everything off, The drivers side nut was not very tight it didnt need much to loosen, but then became very tight and I had to take the impact wrench to get it off.
The threads are quite mangled on the outboard Joint, I wonder if I can clean the threads up or do I need to replace this also? I looks difficult to remove based in the shop manual, more special tools
The threads are quite mangled on the outboard Joint, I wonder if I can clean the threads up or do I need to replace this also? I looks difficult to remove based in the shop manual, more special tools
#56
Originally Posted by gernby,Jun 17 2006, 03:20 PM
If you can afford to let the car sit on blocks for a week while you wait for parts, then remove the bearings and races to see if there is any scoring on the spindle. Otherwise, you should go ahead and replace the CV joint too. BTW, all 3 of the bearings I've replaced scored the spindle. Just because the wheel is turning, doesn't mean that the bearing didn't seize.
Considering the cost, I would probably try cleaning the threads on your CV joint with a wire brush (on a drill) before spending $200 on a replacement.
#57
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Wow--this thread is back from the dead. Haven't had another wheel bearing failure since--? is, though--are all the hub/bearing failures associated with the rear? Should the fronts be replaced every x miles/track days?
#60
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OP: thanks for the post. i just did a bearing change on a friend's 01 last nite. 2hours, start to finish including cleaning up. i didn't have the honda balljoint separator. i used a two finger puller for the lower balljoint and for the top, i left the arm attached to the knuckle and unbolted it from the chassis.
i pressed out/in the bearings myself so added to the list of tools was a large snap-ring plier for the retainting ring and a slide hammer to pull the hub out of the knuckle.
i pressed out/in the bearings myself so added to the list of tools was a large snap-ring plier for the retainting ring and a slide hammer to pull the hub out of the knuckle.