Rear Knuckle, Hub and Bearing Removal/Replacement
#12
Administrator
Originally Posted by Chazmo,Jul 25 2004, 07:46 PM
Not to take this awesome write-up off track, but I think 90 may be too high for our lugs. Something on the order of 75 ft-lb. Anyway, best wishes.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
79.6 ft/lbs is what the manual recommends, but if I can quote Xviper: "I feel 80 is not quite enough and although 100 may still be safe, I compromise at 90. There have been reports of the odd owner here where the lugnuts loosened at 80."
Also: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...;Lug+Nuts"
90 is pretty much standard at the track whether it's Volvos or Ferraris. I've no idea why the first one went. It's possible that it was overtorqued past 90....I'd rather I made a mistake than there be some defect with Honda Lugs.
And yes, they're always tightened in a star pattern.
I'll link this thread--thanks Xviper!
Also: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...;Lug+Nuts"
90 is pretty much standard at the track whether it's Volvos or Ferraris. I've no idea why the first one went. It's possible that it was overtorqued past 90....I'd rather I made a mistake than there be some defect with Honda Lugs.
And yes, they're always tightened in a star pattern.
I'll link this thread--thanks Xviper!
#17
After stripping / breaking lug nuts on my 1st autocross car, I started using anti-seeze on all my lugs. I haven't had a problem since, and my wheels come off quite often. I also make sure I never tighten OR loosen hot lug nuts.
I had to replace both of my rear hubs AND bearings between 35K and 40K miles. I've also replaced one hub and bearing set on another S2K. I think we just have underengineered bearings on the rear, which wind up scoring the hub when they go out.
I had to replace both of my rear hubs AND bearings between 35K and 40K miles. I've also replaced one hub and bearing set on another S2K. I think we just have underengineered bearings on the rear, which wind up scoring the hub when they go out.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
The seize theory does explain the first one going--it looked ok, but when I went to remove it it just cracked right off (with very little pressure). Does Anti-Seize compound screw up measuring the torque the way oil does?
Any particular brand you guys would recommend?
Any particular brand you guys would recommend?
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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Originally Posted by CoralDoc,Jul 26 2004, 04:29 AM
One of the key lines of evidence for the "seizing hypothesis"is that many times the studs break upon lug nut REMOVAL.
My advice is to use a VERY LIGHT coating of anti-seize on lug nuts, brake caliper bolts, and any other fastener that is regularly removed and replaced on the car, especially those exposed to high heat.
My advice is to use a VERY LIGHT coating of anti-seize on lug nuts, brake caliper bolts, and any other fastener that is regularly removed and replaced on the car, especially those exposed to high heat.
I had this problem once 5 years ago on a 86 CRX. I tracked it twice, and when I tried removing one of the lug nuts, the lug broke. It was as if the nut was fused to the lug.
I now put a little bit of antiseize on the lugs. It does not take a whole lot, as the nut spins around the lug, the antiseize is distributed very well inside the threads, there will be a very thin layer. I am talking a very tiny dab. If you put to much, you will get a thick layer of antiseize in the grooves and then the excess will fling off from centrifigal force as the wheel spins.
Remember, just a very thin film will do. I torque my wheels to about 75-80 ft lbs for track or hard spirited driving. I check the torque frequently and never had a problem.
#20
Registered User
The broken studs more likely point to under-torquing than over-torquing. Over-torquing will put stress into the bolt and stretch the threads. But under-torquing will allow the stud to flex, which will rapidly increase the number of fatigue cycles until they break.
Either problem requires replaceing the studs, but it is under-torquing that leads to the more dangerous failure.
Either problem requires replaceing the studs, but it is under-torquing that leads to the more dangerous failure.