Rear Knuckle, Hub and Bearing Removal/Replacement
05-20-2012, 07:30 AM
#162
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I will be replacing my Drivers side rear knuckle soon. My car has all the symptoms and now it got quieter and handles like crap. It feels like really bad bump steer. I have fight the wheel to keep it straight at highway speeds. I bought an AP2 knuckle for my AP1 because I was told they are compatible. After reading through this thread, I found out they are not compatible. Here is my plan: I will install the AP2 knuckle and test the car out, get it aligned if it handles sloppy. If this is not possible, I will get a new bearing and hub assembly for the AP1 knuckle and swap them out again.
03-28-2013, 09:14 AM
#163
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DUDE.....Fabulous write up 
"Do not use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints unless you want to learn all about replacing the Ball Joint Boots, too. " I once used a pickle fork to remove a lower ball joint on an 86 Honda CRX. About two to three weeks later, I noticed the steering felt a little funny and it made a little noise. A week later I was driving down Arnold Drive in Sonoma and the car started to shake. I got out of the car and shook the right front tire with my hands, and it did not look good. I proceeded to turn around to go back home, and the right front corner of the car collapsed 
I will always use the proper tools after that episode. Hey, does anyone know if the same ball joint removal tool for a Del Sol would works on the S?
"Do not use a pickle fork to remove the ball joints unless you want to learn all about replacing the Ball Joint Boots, too. " I once used a pickle fork to remove a lower ball joint on an 86 Honda CRX. About two to three weeks later, I noticed the steering felt a little funny and it made a little noise. A week later I was driving down Arnold Drive in Sonoma and the car started to shake. I got out of the car and shook the right front tire with my hands, and it did not look good. I proceeded to turn around to go back home, and the right front corner of the car collapsed I will always use the proper tools after that episode. Hey, does anyone know if the same ball joint removal tool for a Del Sol would works on the S?
03-28-2013, 09:20 AM
#164
03-30-2013, 07:19 PM
#165
I really recommend getting the OTC tool
I hit the arm a few times and was able to pop off the lower ball joint and the tie rods. I was not able to pop off one and I had to use the tool
I used a three jaw puller to remove the knuckle as hitting it with a mallet never got the axle out. It made life so much easier
I hit the arm a few times and was able to pop off the lower ball joint and the tie rods. I was not able to pop off one and I had to use the tool
I used a three jaw puller to remove the knuckle as hitting it with a mallet never got the axle out. It made life so much easier
06-29-2013, 04:58 PM
#166
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I did this job last month. Thanks to everyone (especially robinette) who made this easier for me by adding helpful how-to's or advice.
I had some problems getting the ball joints apart. Here is what I learned. Please comment if you see something wrong.
Synopsis: buy and use this tool: Assenmacher 1201A
I read there are several techniques to get the ball joints apart:
A pickle fork can be driven in with a hammer. The wedge shaped sides drive the joint apart till it pops. Easy and quick. People online commented that it usually rips the ball joint rubber boot. It's often used when the ball joint is going to be replaced, when this wouldn't matter. Replacing the rubber boot can be a pain. Not worth the risk.
Experienced mechanics know where to hit the suspension part containing the tapered receiver to make the ball joint taper pop out. Apparently you can get the taper to flex and release the press fit for just a split second, and the taper comes out. All these suspension parts are steel, but I certainly didn't want to go wailing on the parts with a hammer, lest I cause damage.
Nobody recommends hitting the ball joint stud with a hammer. This will hurt the ball joint.
The preferred method is to use a tool to gently pull the joint apart. The shop manual explicitly says "Always use a ball joint remover ... Do not strike any part .. to disconnect it". They recommend the honda tool, 07MAC-SL00200, which is now 07MAC-SL00202. Majestic Honda (my favorite source for parts) has this for over $200. This tool looks awesome, though - sturdy and adjustable. I saw someone online theorized the 'MAC' in the part number implies it's made by Mac tools, but I couldn't find any truth to that. Anyway, the key to this tool is in the name - per Majestic it is the "BJ REMOVER, 28MM". The 28mm size is crucial. This is the width of the opening across the split forks in front.
As you can see below the width of the shaft at the ball joint opening is 1.105in = 28mm. If the separator forks are spread less than this you won't be able to get the tool into position.
This post online is the only mention I could google up of wider than normal ball joints, where the cheap common tool won't work.
At first I bought a cheap ($20) Napa tool. It's opening at .760 in = 19.3mm isn't large enough. See below. Note - given how much force is required before the joint pops open I wouldn't want to grind away enough material to just let it fit.
http://www.uberthin.com/hosted/s2000...A%20Throat.png
I take issue with the OTC tool recommended earlier in this thread (6297). According to the user submitted image on Amazon it's also .760 wide. That just isn't going to cut it. Reviewing this thread it looks like those recommending it are saying "i'll bet that would work better than method x that I tried". Please, if someone has actually used it, speak up! The price is good.
So I settled on the Assenmacher 1201A tool. The 1201A is the new version of their old 1201 tool (which looks about the same). Mine cost ~ $125 shipped. The tool is very well made though. I disagree with their stats that it's 30mm wide, as you can see below it seems to measure in at more like 26mm. It fits, though. Although there is a pin that allows the adjustment of the top to bottom spread I found neither hole worked great. I used the bigger opening but put a steel shim in the bottom jaw to keep the arms more parallel. (Heed other's advice to put a nut on the end of the stud and not press directly on the shaft.)
So Robinette provides excellent instructions on replacing the rear bearings. As you can see on his instruction page he is using a ball joint separator tool on the rear wheel. To my eye it looks like the 1201 tool (the original design). This bearing replacement instruction page, however, links to another page to explain ball joint removal. The confusing thing for me was that this second page is specifically for the front wheels. He links to a 'Tool Aid 61900' tool, and says it "should work", to me implying he hasn't actually tried it. Looking at picture of the tool online I don't think it will work (jaw opening is too narrow). As you can see in the picture, Robb actually uses a puller for this job. As you can also see, there is room to do this on the front wheel, where there is not central axle. A puller like this won't fit around the axle on the rear wheel. It also won't fit on the rear axle, front ball joint, where the knuckle won't allow access.
I hope this all helps clear up some confusion for the next guy!
I had some problems getting the ball joints apart. Here is what I learned. Please comment if you see something wrong.
Synopsis: buy and use this tool: Assenmacher 1201A
I read there are several techniques to get the ball joints apart:
A pickle fork can be driven in with a hammer. The wedge shaped sides drive the joint apart till it pops. Easy and quick. People online commented that it usually rips the ball joint rubber boot. It's often used when the ball joint is going to be replaced, when this wouldn't matter. Replacing the rubber boot can be a pain. Not worth the risk.
Experienced mechanics know where to hit the suspension part containing the tapered receiver to make the ball joint taper pop out. Apparently you can get the taper to flex and release the press fit for just a split second, and the taper comes out. All these suspension parts are steel, but I certainly didn't want to go wailing on the parts with a hammer, lest I cause damage.
Nobody recommends hitting the ball joint stud with a hammer. This will hurt the ball joint.
The preferred method is to use a tool to gently pull the joint apart. The shop manual explicitly says "Always use a ball joint remover ... Do not strike any part .. to disconnect it". They recommend the honda tool, 07MAC-SL00200, which is now 07MAC-SL00202. Majestic Honda (my favorite source for parts) has this for over $200. This tool looks awesome, though - sturdy and adjustable. I saw someone online theorized the 'MAC' in the part number implies it's made by Mac tools, but I couldn't find any truth to that. Anyway, the key to this tool is in the name - per Majestic it is the "BJ REMOVER, 28MM". The 28mm size is crucial. This is the width of the opening across the split forks in front.
As you can see below the width of the shaft at the ball joint opening is 1.105in = 28mm. If the separator forks are spread less than this you won't be able to get the tool into position.
This post online is the only mention I could google up of wider than normal ball joints, where the cheap common tool won't work.
At first I bought a cheap ($20) Napa tool. It's opening at .760 in = 19.3mm isn't large enough. See below. Note - given how much force is required before the joint pops open I wouldn't want to grind away enough material to just let it fit.
http://www.uberthin.com/hosted/s2000...A%20Throat.png
I take issue with the OTC tool recommended earlier in this thread (6297). According to the user submitted image on Amazon it's also .760 wide. That just isn't going to cut it. Reviewing this thread it looks like those recommending it are saying "i'll bet that would work better than method x that I tried". Please, if someone has actually used it, speak up! The price is good.
So I settled on the Assenmacher 1201A tool. The 1201A is the new version of their old 1201 tool (which looks about the same). Mine cost ~ $125 shipped. The tool is very well made though. I disagree with their stats that it's 30mm wide, as you can see below it seems to measure in at more like 26mm. It fits, though. Although there is a pin that allows the adjustment of the top to bottom spread I found neither hole worked great. I used the bigger opening but put a steel shim in the bottom jaw to keep the arms more parallel. (Heed other's advice to put a nut on the end of the stud and not press directly on the shaft.)
So Robinette provides excellent instructions on replacing the rear bearings. As you can see on his instruction page he is using a ball joint separator tool on the rear wheel. To my eye it looks like the 1201 tool (the original design). This bearing replacement instruction page, however, links to another page to explain ball joint removal. The confusing thing for me was that this second page is specifically for the front wheels. He links to a 'Tool Aid 61900' tool, and says it "should work", to me implying he hasn't actually tried it. Looking at picture of the tool online I don't think it will work (jaw opening is too narrow). As you can see in the picture, Robb actually uses a puller for this job. As you can also see, there is room to do this on the front wheel, where there is not central axle. A puller like this won't fit around the axle on the rear wheel. It also won't fit on the rear axle, front ball joint, where the knuckle won't allow access.
I hope this all helps clear up some confusion for the next guy!
06-30-2013, 08:02 AM
#167
I take issue with the OTC tool recommended earlier in this thread (6297). According to the user submitted image on Amazon it's also .760 wide. That just isn't going to cut it. Reviewing this thread it looks like those recommending it are saying "i'll bet that would work better than method x that I tried". Please, if someone has actually used it, speak up! The price is good.
07-01-2013, 03:37 PM
#168
Former Moderator
uberthin,
This is what I use to pop ball joints front & rear:
It's from a $70 HarborFreight.com Front End Service Kit. It looks exactly like the one from Amazon linked a few posts up. I'll get rid of the pic on my site of the generic puller (which does work for the front ball joints). It looks like all the tool links on the ball joint swap web page are now broken. I'll fix or delete them.
The links in the sentence, "These generic ball joint presses look like they have the correct size receiver and may work: Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press $30 or Tool Warehouse Ball Joint Press $67," are referring to the press that pushes the ball joint out of the upper arm and are specific to installing SPC adjustable ball joints--they are not for popping ball joints.
I would be surprised if most generic ball joint tools like the one pictured above won't work on the S2000.
It's very easy to drill out the brake disk screws if they get stripped out. They're made of a very soft material so you can remove just the head and not damage the rotor with the right size drill bit.
Thanks for the feedback on the website,
Rob Robinette
This is what I use to pop ball joints front & rear:
It's from a $70 HarborFreight.com Front End Service Kit. It looks exactly like the one from Amazon linked a few posts up. I'll get rid of the pic on my site of the generic puller (which does work for the front ball joints). It looks like all the tool links on the ball joint swap web page are now broken. I'll fix or delete them.
The links in the sentence, "These generic ball joint presses look like they have the correct size receiver and may work: Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press $30 or Tool Warehouse Ball Joint Press $67," are referring to the press that pushes the ball joint out of the upper arm and are specific to installing SPC adjustable ball joints--they are not for popping ball joints.
I would be surprised if most generic ball joint tools like the one pictured above won't work on the S2000.
It's very easy to drill out the brake disk screws if they get stripped out. They're made of a very soft material so you can remove just the head and not damage the rotor with the right size drill bit.
Thanks for the feedback on the website,
Rob Robinette
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TrumpetTitan (05-28-2019)
01-27-2014, 04:26 AM
#169
my car makes a chirping sound that it rotational based. I hear it at very low speeds, it stops when i apply light(maybe having the pedal pressed about a 1/4 inch) pressure to the brake pedal. I let off the brake it appears again. It does not change with direction of turning and I can sometimes hear it if I am going 40mph or so near a retaining wall/buildings. Would these symptoms point to the brakes dragging instead?? It does appear to be the same chirp squeal as my carbotech xp10/xp8 brakes. 
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