Rear Knuckle, Hub and Bearing Removal/Replacement
05-23-2010, 10:52 AM
#141
Assuming my car wasn't in an accident and the knuckle isn't bent, there is DEFINITELY a difference. The lowest I can get the rear right side toe is +0.69 with camber at -1.01. If the camber decreases to -2.0, the toe cannot be any lower than +0.9.
I've taken my car to two different alignment places. Having a friend at the track take a look at it while I fix up the old AP1 knuckle.
After pressing out the wheel hub from AP1 knuckle. I noticed that the brake backing plate screws sheared off. I'll have to figure out how to extract the remaining parts of the screws.
Tried to use wheel hub off AP2 knuckle, but same thing happened when I pressed it out, half the wheel bearing came off with the wheel hub.
Not sure of a torch can loosen it up & hesitant to use dremel to cut it.
I've taken my car to two different alignment places. Having a friend at the track take a look at it while I fix up the old AP1 knuckle.
After pressing out the wheel hub from AP1 knuckle. I noticed that the brake backing plate screws sheared off. I'll have to figure out how to extract the remaining parts of the screws.
Tried to use wheel hub off AP2 knuckle, but same thing happened when I pressed it out, half the wheel bearing came off with the wheel hub.
Not sure of a torch can loosen it up & hesitant to use dremel to cut it.
05-23-2010, 11:09 AM
#142
Please post confirmation that AP1 and AP2 knuckle assembly part numbers are the same.
Quoting from another thread in this forum:
Majestic Honda has different part numbers for MY03 and MY04 rear knuckles. I have absolutely no idea what might be different about them.
MY04 - http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...REAR+LOWER+ARM
MY03 - http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...REAR+LOWER+ARM
I guess I paid $270 to find out what google found in a few minutes of research. I did call the dealership to confirm, but who knows who answered on the other side. Could be a kid ready to leave work and decided to say it's the same to get me off the phone.
Again, I know the difference because it's giving me a hard time to set up my rear suspension for the track (which I go to at mininum once a week). I'm able to have decent times, but nothing competitive. I do feel a slight instability when suspension is compressing and decompressing like on undulation or elevation change. the turn-in on my car is much quicker on left turns than other s2k's on the track.
My rear right tire also has interested wear pattern and wore out much quicker than the left (there goes my Eagle F1's - $$).
Lots of evidence showing the parts are different.
On the street, car drives straight and doesn't "feel" too loose. But I don't drive close to 8/10's on the street.
With my recent purchase of R compound tires, I'm ready to fix it correctly and not wear through this set as quickly as the previous set.
Hope that answes Mesha's question.
Quoting from another thread in this forum:
Majestic Honda has different part numbers for MY03 and MY04 rear knuckles. I have absolutely no idea what might be different about them.
MY04 - http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...REAR+LOWER+ARM
MY03 - http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...REAR+LOWER+ARM
I guess I paid $270 to find out what google found in a few minutes of research. I did call the dealership to confirm, but who knows who answered on the other side. Could be a kid ready to leave work and decided to say it's the same to get me off the phone.
Again, I know the difference because it's giving me a hard time to set up my rear suspension for the track (which I go to at mininum once a week). I'm able to have decent times, but nothing competitive. I do feel a slight instability when suspension is compressing and decompressing like on undulation or elevation change. the turn-in on my car is much quicker on left turns than other s2k's on the track.
My rear right tire also has interested wear pattern and wore out much quicker than the left (there goes my Eagle F1's - $$).
Lots of evidence showing the parts are different.
On the street, car drives straight and doesn't "feel" too loose. But I don't drive close to 8/10's on the street.
With my recent purchase of R compound tires, I'm ready to fix it correctly and not wear through this set as quickly as the previous set.
Hope that answes Mesha's question.
05-23-2010, 09:59 PM
#143
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crap, I'm wrong. the 2nd to last digit in the p/n are different. I verified the p/ns earlier, apparently not very well.
All AP2s are the same, incl CR.
All AP1s are the same.
AP1 diff than AP2.
All AP2s are the same, incl CR.
All AP1s are the same.
AP1 diff than AP2.
05-31-2010, 11:16 AM
#147
No, I didn't have to remove the brake dust shield to remove the ball joints.
btw, replaced the hub and bearing on the old AP1 knuckle using AP2 hub and Timken bearing.
Definitely notice a lot more stability on the track, especially when the suspension is in transition from compression to decompression.
btw, replaced the hub and bearing on the old AP1 knuckle using AP2 hub and Timken bearing.
Definitely notice a lot more stability on the track, especially when the suspension is in transition from compression to decompression.
07-15-2010, 12:36 PM
#148
so, i can NOT get one of my rotor screws out! it won't budge! pb blaster and impact screwdriver are not getting the job done. i'm almost at the pissed off point to where i want to just drill the head off and get a new one. it was begging to strip when i began too. i can tell that there's been work on this area before.
also, it's pretty frikkin difficult to find the ball joint separator in my town. no one carries it in stock. i tracked down a matco tools guy and he can't even get one until next week. we have 4 auto parts stores in my town and they all SUCK! lol. no one can get a quality tool until next week. there's one guy that can get a poorly made one tomorrow (and in the picture it appears as if it woluld bend pretty quickly) but i'm tryin to get it done today so i can put on my suspension tomorrow.
also, it's pretty frikkin difficult to find the ball joint separator in my town. no one carries it in stock. i tracked down a matco tools guy and he can't even get one until next week. we have 4 auto parts stores in my town and they all SUCK! lol. no one can get a quality tool until next week. there's one guy that can get a poorly made one tomorrow (and in the picture it appears as if it woluld bend pretty quickly) but i'm tryin to get it done today so i can put on my suspension tomorrow.
07-15-2010, 12:52 PM
#149
It sucks about the screw. They can be a bitch, but one thing that works for me is to use a 5 lbs sledge to hammer in a large phillips bit, then use a ratchet on it.
Why are you tyring to pull your ball joints? If you are installing a new suspension (springs, shocks, or coilovers), you don't need to pop any ball joints.
Why are you tyring to pull your ball joints? If you are installing a new suspension (springs, shocks, or coilovers), you don't need to pop any ball joints.