When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's the lower right side ball joint. Index finger is pointed at the gap that I don't think should be there. Is it possible the joint's rubber boot is just pushed up from the ball joint puller when I took it off?
Yes. slide the boot down. As long as you properly torqued the stud and there was no dirt/metal bits/etc in the lower arm fitting for the bj stud, then you are all set.
Ahhh Good! Then I will see if I can't get them to drop a bit. the holes were cleaned out. I used a brush. No I just have to get the rotors and wheels back on so I can torque the hub nuts! Thanks!!!!
Just an FYI to this thread:
I thought the AP1 and AP2 knuckles can be interchanged, making swap of the defective wheel hub easier.
I have both side by side and you can see the slight differences in angle for the ball joints as well as thickness of the arms from the knuckle.
After the shop installed it, my toe was off more than 2 degrees! I got an alignment and it's straight, but I still feel the rear is a bit unstable compared to the AP1 knuckle.
Unfortunately, it's already installed on my AP1 on the passenger side. I've done a few track events but I can feel the slight instability in the rear when the suspension is compressing and de-compressing. Perhaps it wasn't as noticeable at the track since I'm typically loading up that side (counter clockwise track).
I didn't find this info easily at first so just wanted to add to this thread since it started with a broken lug stud.
Now, I'm going to put the old AP1 knuckle back on with the wheel stud and bearing replaced.
Thanks to contributions to this thread! I'm ordering the OTC tool.
btw, the Honda BJ separator tool may seem expensive, but the labor alone for removing knuckle is more than $150. May help with perspective.
I've seen a couple posts on how to press out the hub and bearing with a press. Any recommendations on what to use to press out the hub and/or bearing? Saw some interesting devices in the VW forum where metal cups on a bolt collapses the bearing (tighten the nut from opposite side) so it pops out which enables the work to be done without a press.
If you buy the knuckle from honda does it come with a bearing and hub already installed? We just broke my rear pass. side knuckle while pressing the old bearing out.
Originally Posted by deathsled,Apr 26 2010, 04:42 PM
If you buy the knuckle from honda does it come with a bearing and hub already installed? We just broke my rear pass. side knuckle while pressing the old bearing out.
no. the knuckle, bearing, and hub are 3 separate pieces
I have compared prices from the various on-line discount price sellers for OEM parts - Majestic is the cheapest (on every item, IIRC).
I have some NIB Timken rear hub bearings if you need them - $50 shipped for the pair.
04-07-2010, 09:46 PM
