ccarnel

Ok several questions here:
1. How do you remove the output shafts on the differential?? I have absolutely no clue here.
2. How do you reinstall them in the new diff? Do you have to "wack" it with a hammer?
3. What are the torque specs on the bolts holding the prop shaft to the input shaft of the differential?
4. What are the torque specs on the bolts holding the axels to the output shafts
5. What are the torque specs on the bolts holding the diff to the support brackets.. first the front 4 bolts?.... and then what about the "rear" 4 nuts that screw into the studs protruding from the rear of the differential
6. Also what is the torque spec on the castle nut on the lower a-arms? Do you just torque it to spec or is there another step in reinstalling the castle nut?

Thanks
Charles carnel

Blkturbos2k

Buy a book or take one from Honda, Thats what I did, I now have 2

Blkturbos2k

Or you can take it to Honda and they should not charge any more then 5 hours. I took mine to Inline and it was less then that. You shoul pay around $400

RT

1. Slide hammer
2. Wack w/ hammer but use a piece of wood for padding
3-6. Don't have my Helm Manual handy, sorry

ccarnel

It's all good guys... went to the HOnda dealership in Cookeville,TN and they let me borrow the shop manual on the car for a few hours... The diff is in and installed and going for a smoke test in a few minutes!

RT

Blkturbos2k

Thats good, mine should be in next week. Iam going to the track and going to try to hit 11.5-11.7. I hope this holds up. Have fun

Squeezer

3. 26 ft lbs, but you should torque them as tight as possible or use some thread locker. i find they like to work themselves loose.
4. 61 ft lbs
5. i don't remember, i just got them as tight as i could by hand and they are fine on mine. be careful with the rear ones, you have to use a 17mm combo wrench and since combo wrenches are 12 point, you can strip the bolts very easily, they are soft metal too
6. torque to spec,. 61 ft lbs and then put a new cotter pin thru the hole.