Rear Diff Damaged and Still Runs?
#1
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Hey fellow S2K drivers,
I own a 2007 NFR S2000 with 36k miles. Recently I was hearing a liquid-y noise when accelerating and a creaking noise when slowing down. I took it to a Honda dealer. They couldn't find the problem I described. After an oil change and alignment, the noise went away for a week. Then I started get a clicking noise from the rear of the car. I thought this might be related to how cold it was, dropped to 5 degrees this week. The next day, one frosty Wednesday morning on the way to work, click click click click CRUNCH!! CLICK CLICK CLICK. I took it to a different Honda dealer because I don't trust the other one anymore. They said my whole differential needs to be rebuilt, costing 2600 altogether. I talked to some mechanic friends and they said they want to look at the car, because with what the Dealer stated happened, the car should not be driveable after that. And yet I was able to drive it back to my house, onto and off of the flatbed, AND park it neatly for the dealer.
I decided to take the car from the dealer tomorrow so my friends can inspect it. What do you think really happened and is it worth 2600?
P.S.
I should point out while the rear is being worked on, I'd like to updgrade maybe with a new final drive or an LSD.
I own a 2007 NFR S2000 with 36k miles. Recently I was hearing a liquid-y noise when accelerating and a creaking noise when slowing down. I took it to a Honda dealer. They couldn't find the problem I described. After an oil change and alignment, the noise went away for a week. Then I started get a clicking noise from the rear of the car. I thought this might be related to how cold it was, dropped to 5 degrees this week. The next day, one frosty Wednesday morning on the way to work, click click click click CRUNCH!! CLICK CLICK CLICK. I took it to a different Honda dealer because I don't trust the other one anymore. They said my whole differential needs to be rebuilt, costing 2600 altogether. I talked to some mechanic friends and they said they want to look at the car, because with what the Dealer stated happened, the car should not be driveable after that. And yet I was able to drive it back to my house, onto and off of the flatbed, AND park it neatly for the dealer.
I decided to take the car from the dealer tomorrow so my friends can inspect it. What do you think really happened and is it worth 2600?
P.S.
I should point out while the rear is being worked on, I'd like to updgrade maybe with a new final drive or an LSD.
#2
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That's robbery at the price they gave you. Contact Puddydad on this forum, he can hook you up with whatever you need, differential wise, at a great price, ready to install upon arrival...
#4
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You'd be better off buying a replacement diff and putting it on yourself. Its quite a simple job with the right tools. I think there is an Ap2 diff with low miles still for sale in the classifieds section for $450.
#5
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I bet axle nuts need to be torque to 222 tq. If your just getting a bit of a clicking sound, mainly on acceleration this is your issue.
If the rear is going or is gone you will hear whining sounds, thumping, and other like noises coming from the rear. You are welcome to PM me if you need more info on figuring out if you have a differential issue,
#6
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Alright here are the pictures:
![](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g117/DynographK/0111141518.jpg)
![](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g117/DynographK/0111141516.jpg)
It's in my garage now. It was not nearly as bad as the dealer said, it's just missing teeth. I've decided while this is getting fixed, I'll be upgrading to 4.57 gears (maybe a hondata flashpro). I'd prefer upgrading to the OS Jiken Super Lock LSD if I had to change the LSD and some 75A Innovative Mounts. I might need new axles too, not sure of their condition. The car was clicking when I was pushing it, but the axles are just tied up right now. Will I save money by going with PuddyMod stage 2? Thanks!
EDIT - My friend said the oil smelled burnt, and that maybe the Honda dealer didn't put enough oil in, but that was in September.
![](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g117/DynographK/0111141518.jpg)
![](http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g117/DynographK/0111141516.jpg)
It's in my garage now. It was not nearly as bad as the dealer said, it's just missing teeth. I've decided while this is getting fixed, I'll be upgrading to 4.57 gears (maybe a hondata flashpro). I'd prefer upgrading to the OS Jiken Super Lock LSD if I had to change the LSD and some 75A Innovative Mounts. I might need new axles too, not sure of their condition. The car was clicking when I was pushing it, but the axles are just tied up right now. Will I save money by going with PuddyMod stage 2? Thanks!
EDIT - My friend said the oil smelled burnt, and that maybe the Honda dealer didn't put enough oil in, but that was in September.
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#9
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I've done a few launches, but my driving level isn't high enough yet to do this much damage. I heard a rumor it was raced. Of course I heard this AFTER I bought the car.
Here's what I believe happened. I probably noticed when the oil was burning but I didn't know how to determine where the sound was coming from. That one time I brought it to the Honda dealer, they hadn't a clue. What a waste of time with these dealers. The pinion broke after the clicking, then the clicking got louder and it limped a shortways back home.
Here's what I believe happened. I probably noticed when the oil was burning but I didn't know how to determine where the sound was coming from. That one time I brought it to the Honda dealer, they hadn't a clue. What a waste of time with these dealers. The pinion broke after the clicking, then the clicking got louder and it limped a shortways back home.
#10
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Just to give you an idea, I have 193,000 miles on the original diff and that includes a few launches here and there, and it's still doing fine. These diffs are not weak by any means, it's the abuse and wrong way of launching that destroys them.