Rear Clicking Sound
03-09-2007, 01:46 PM
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Rear Clicking Sound
I have an 04. There is a clicking sound at the rear of the car when moving forward or backwards when starting from stopped position. This happens after brakes are released and after car is in gear. Dealership says it's brake pad shift. But I've read that happens when applying brakes, not when moving. Can this be pad shift? Or should I have them look at something else?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
03-09-2007, 02:01 PM
#2
Former Moderator
Hub nut needs re-torque.
Jeez...this thread seems familiar.
It's a common problem. The axle hub nut...the big sucker you see when you pull the wheel off right in the middle of the brake disk. It should be torqued to 220ft-lb. If you are still under warranty a dealer can be trusted to do that level of work. Otherwise, see if someone in your area has the big ass socket and is willing to re-torque for you.
Jeez...this thread seems familiar.
It's a common problem. The axle hub nut...the big sucker you see when you pull the wheel off right in the middle of the brake disk. It should be torqued to 220ft-lb. If you are still under warranty a dealer can be trusted to do that level of work. Otherwise, see if someone in your area has the big ass socket and is willing to re-torque for you.
03-10-2007, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by negcamber,Mar 9 2007, 06:01 PM
Hub nut needs re-torque.
Jeez...this thread seems familiar.
It's a common problem. The axle hub nut...the big sucker you see when you pull the wheel off right in the middle of the brake disk. It should be torqued to 220ft-lb. If you are still under warranty a dealer can be trusted to do that level of work. Otherwise, see if someone in your area has the big ass socket and is willing to re-torque for you.
Jeez...this thread seems familiar.
It's a common problem. The axle hub nut...the big sucker you see when you pull the wheel off right in the middle of the brake disk. It should be torqued to 220ft-lb. If you are still under warranty a dealer can be trusted to do that level of work. Otherwise, see if someone in your area has the big ass socket and is willing to re-torque for you.
Thanks again negcamber!
03-10-2007, 07:16 AM
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Don't forget to put some grease behind the axle nut and on the thread before re-torquing.
This to make sure the torque is not lost in friction.
On older cars its recommended IMO to remove the axles out of their splines to inspect and re-grease the splines on the axle and in the hub.
A bit more work.. "pop" the lower ball joint, ect.. but worth it.
A dealer probably would not do the extra work under warranty.. I guess.
This to make sure the torque is not lost in friction.
On older cars its recommended IMO to remove the axles out of their splines to inspect and re-grease the splines on the axle and in the hub.
A bit more work.. "pop" the lower ball joint, ect.. but worth it.
A dealer probably would not do the extra work under warranty.. I guess.
03-10-2007, 07:56 AM
#7
It needs to re-torqued to 220 ft# its easy enough just take the center cap off the rim. with the car on the ground, ebrake on, tranny in gear. Get some greese and lube up your nuts and find your favorite torque wrench and jam those suckers on. Just make sure you re-stake the nut when you are finished.
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03-16-2007, 03:42 PM
#10
Former Moderator
Insist they read:
Service Bulletin 011201 Sequence Number: 627 Clicking Rear replaced Hub Nuts"
and print this thread for them
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=374235
Service Bulletin 011201 Sequence Number: 627 Clicking Rear replaced Hub Nuts"
and print this thread for them
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=374235