Rear Camber Won't Adjust
02-04-2015, 07:17 PM
#11
It's either all in your head, or you have a problem with the upper control arm bushings as far as handling is concerned. When going from stock to lowered to stock ride height again you should have loosened ALL the control arm bolts(including the uppers, even though you didn't touch them), pre-loaded the suspension and then tightened them all. I bought my car lowered, and didn't properly pre-load the suspension when I went back to stock, long story short, I tore the right rear UCA bushings, although they could have already been ripped when I bought the car, and just noticed when I swapped suspensions. In either case, it's not a difficult job. Remove 1 cotter pin, 1 castle nut, 1 ball joint, 2 17mm bolts, and two 10mm bolts for the speed sensor bracket. Press out old bushings, press in new ones.
Also as has already been said, there's really no reason you can't bring the camber down, a lot of alignment shop techs simply get frustrated because although they know that toe and camber affect each other, they don't understand why, or what the adjusters are actually doing to the knuckle. They'll just throw their hands up when they can't set the alignment properly, and just say 'good enough I ain't got time for this' and just get it as close as they can. Either that or you have a seized adjuster, or tweaked arm, or knuckle.
Also as has already been said, there's really no reason you can't bring the camber down, a lot of alignment shop techs simply get frustrated because although they know that toe and camber affect each other, they don't understand why, or what the adjusters are actually doing to the knuckle. They'll just throw their hands up when they can't set the alignment properly, and just say 'good enough I ain't got time for this' and just get it as close as they can. Either that or you have a seized adjuster, or tweaked arm, or knuckle.
02-04-2015, 08:30 PM
#12
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It's either all in your head, or you have a problem with the upper control arm bushings as far as handling is concerned. When going from stock to lowered to stock ride height again you should have loosened ALL the control arm bolts(including the uppers, even though you didn't touch them), pre-loaded the suspension and then tightened them all. I bought my car lowered, and didn't properly pre-load the suspension when I went back to stock, long story short, I tore the right rear UCA bushings, although they could have already been ripped when I bought the car, and just noticed when I swapped suspensions. In either case, it's not a difficult job. Remove 1 cotter pin, 1 castle nut, 1 ball joint, 2 17mm bolts, and two 10mm bolts for the speed sensor bracket. Press out old bushings, press in new ones.
Also as has already been said, there's really no reason you can't bring the camber down, a lot of alignment shop techs simply get frustrated because although they know that toe and camber affect each other, they don't understand why, or what the adjusters are actually doing to the knuckle. They'll just throw their hands up when they can't set the alignment properly, and just say 'good enough I ain't got time for this' and just get it as close as they can. Either that or you have a seized adjuster, or tweaked arm, or knuckle.
Also as has already been said, there's really no reason you can't bring the camber down, a lot of alignment shop techs simply get frustrated because although they know that toe and camber affect each other, they don't understand why, or what the adjusters are actually doing to the knuckle. They'll just throw their hands up when they can't set the alignment properly, and just say 'good enough I ain't got time for this' and just get it as close as they can. Either that or you have a seized adjuster, or tweaked arm, or knuckle.
I took the car back to the shop this afternoon and explained to them what it was doing. On the street the car drives fine with no issues, but when I take it into the canyons the car has a hard time taking hard left corners, it feels like the car immediately wants to adjust back to a straight line and you can feel a lot of body roll and lack of grip as well. When I take it into the harder right corners the car feels fine and easily clears it with little issue. I've had the car inspected twice at both Honda and my usual shop and they said everything was fine and there was no visible damage to the arms, bushings or knuckles. I honestly don't know what the issue is. One thing that did happen when the car was lowered is the front right tire got pieces of rubber sheared off by the fender which is when I immediately raised it back up. That tire is now on the front left of the car and I am seriously wondering if thats why it feels weird and seems to lack grip in the left corners but only the outer tread pattern was affected and it was fairly light damage. I've already decided to take the car to a professional tuning shop and luckily I'm only about an hour away from Evasive Motorsports so I'm going to be calling them tomorrow and see if they can help me out and considering the amount of experience they have with our cars I think they can. I don't have the time and space to be messing with the car at home or paying money to a shop that doesn't really deal with suspension systems and even they suggested I take it to a professional tuning shop instead so that's what I'm going to do.
02-05-2015, 03:54 AM
#13
Do you have stock suspension or coilovers? A bit more rear camber can cause understeer at the limit, but improperly dialed in shocks can as well. As can improper spring preload.
02-05-2015, 09:45 PM
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