Rear Camber Won't Adjust
#1
Rear Camber Won't Adjust
A couple of months ago my car hit 100k miles and I decided to buy some new suspension fro my baby. I picked up a set of Bilstein PSS for a good price and got the car lowered about an inch. Unfortunately the shop that did it did not compensate for the fact the car would also settle more and it was too low and caused a lot of wearing and rubbing issues not to mention driving around town became very annoying so I had the car put back to the stock ride height and got a 4 wheel alignment done today.
The issue is the back right tire will not adjust back to the stock parameters and is rubbing on the inside wheel well. I inspected the car and all the control arms and bushings looked fine. No bends or fractures to be seen so I'm kind of lost. All the others wheels and tires adjusted fine with no issues. Anyone experience this before? I included the alignment sheet below. The back left adjusted fine but the back right won't adjust beyond -2.1, it's maxed out! I have no idea what the issue is.
The issue is the back right tire will not adjust back to the stock parameters and is rubbing on the inside wheel well. I inspected the car and all the control arms and bushings looked fine. No bends or fractures to be seen so I'm kind of lost. All the others wheels and tires adjusted fine with no issues. Anyone experience this before? I included the alignment sheet below. The back left adjusted fine but the back right won't adjust beyond -2.1, it's maxed out! I have no idea what the issue is.
#2
Did they tell you that the adjuster was seized and they couldn't get it adjusted lower ? There is no reason why the camber couldn't be lowered other than the adjuster being seized. I had that on my car once, I took it to a different alignment shop and they got it loosened up for me with a bit of effort.
On the flipside -2.1 degrees isn't too bad, that is pretty close to the UK Honda spec. I am running -2 degrees and I haven't had any issues. You shouldn't see too much wear at that setting IMO.
On the flipside -2.1 degrees isn't too bad, that is pretty close to the UK Honda spec. I am running -2 degrees and I haven't had any issues. You shouldn't see too much wear at that setting IMO.
#3
Most likely your rear passenger camber bolt is seized. You may have to replace it, and believe me, it's a PITA. Not sure why you would experience rubbing considering you only have a 1" drop? I'm lowered about 2" running the euro-spec alignment with no rub at all and have even tire wear.
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
#4
Most likely your rear passenger camber bolt is seized. You may have to replace it, and believe me, it's a PITA. Not sure why you would experience rubbing considering you only have a 1" drop? I'm lowered about 2" running the euro-spec alignment with no rub at all and have even tire wear.
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
It was lowered to an inch but once it settled it got even lower and I didn't roll the fenders or have a roll space adjuster to compensate. The car is back to stock ride height now but that negative camber on the one side is messing with the handling though not much.
#5
Originally Posted by Mr.60trim' timestamp='1422669482' post='23488135
Most likely your rear passenger camber bolt is seized. You may have to replace it, and believe me, it's a PITA. Not sure why you would experience rubbing considering you only have a 1" drop? I'm lowered about 2" running the euro-spec alignment with no rub at all and have even tire wear.
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
It was lowered to an inch but once it settled it got even lower and I didn't roll the fenders or have a roll space adjuster to compensate. The car is back to stock ride height now but that negative camber on the one side is messing with the handling though not much.
#6
Originally Posted by CaliPatriot88' timestamp='1422669703' post='23488137
[quote name='Mr.60trim' timestamp='1422669482' post='23488135']
Most likely your rear passenger camber bolt is seized. You may have to replace it, and believe me, it's a PITA. Not sure why you would experience rubbing considering you only have a 1" drop? I'm lowered about 2" running the euro-spec alignment with no rub at all and have even tire wear.
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
Most likely your rear passenger camber bolt is seized. You may have to replace it, and believe me, it's a PITA. Not sure why you would experience rubbing considering you only have a 1" drop? I'm lowered about 2" running the euro-spec alignment with no rub at all and have even tire wear.
Actually, try running this setup for the street. Not too aggressive on the tires and you'll notice a huge difference in handling characteristics:
Front:
Camber: -1.5*
Castor: (Max out)
Toe: 0*
Rear:
Camber -2.5*
Toe: 24* (Total)
* = degrees
It was lowered to an inch but once it settled it got even lower and I didn't roll the fenders or have a roll space adjuster to compensate. The car is back to stock ride height now but that negative camber on the one side is messing with the handling though not much.
[/quote]
The front right tire literally got pieces of rubber sheared off by the fender, it was definitely too low. The rubbing issues are gone now but the camber situation is bugging me. The car is my daily so I prefer maximum tire life as I don't track or autocross it at all. And I meant to say the tire would wear faster not rubbing so that was my bad.
#7
Took my car up Mulholland road today and over all the car just feels awful in the corners, especially in the left turns it feels very stiff and seems to want to correct itself the second I turn the wheel left. Is this because of the alignment specs I have dialed in right now?
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#8
I can't see camber on one wheel causing what you are feeling. I think front total toe should be zero, and rear toe should be much less than what you have currently. That should improve how the vehicle handles and feels to you if you can get the toe adjusted IMO.
#9
I'm taking it back to the shop Wednesday to have them redo the alignment. When I turn into right corners the car feels fine but when I turn into left corners it just feel like total crap. Should I just zero out the toe on all four wheels? My plan right now is to max out the caster, leave the alignment as is on the front while zeroing out the toe and change the back left wheel to match the right at -2.1 while also reducing the toe. The car is running a staggered set-up on 17x7 front and 17x8 rear if that helps either.
#10
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1422929134' post='23491376
I can't see camber on one wheel causing what you are feeling. I think front total toe should be zero, and rear toe should be much less than what you have currently. That should improve how the vehicle handles and feels to you if you can get the toe adjusted IMO.
On the front go with zero total toe.
You should have some toe at the rear but not nearly as much as what you have. Shoot for about .24 degrees total toe on the rear, so that is .12 degrees per side. Anywhere around .20 - .24 total rear toe is good IMO (.10 - .12 degrees per side).
Max caster is good.
Have them match up the settings side to side as close as possible rather than just trying to get them in a specified range.
Make sure your tire pressures are even side to side - at least 32 psi measured cold. Tire pressures don't affect the alignment but it will affect how the car drives , particularly on the rear wheels.