Rear Axle Nut TSB - DIY
#391
I know this thread is a little older, but just wanted to say thanks for the diy write up and add my own experience.
Just did this diy on my new to me 53k mile 2000 s2000. Didn’t have any discernible rear end noises, just more of a preventative maintenance job. Used a 36” 3/4” breaker bar and nut came loose pretty easy. Didn’t need pb blaster and didn’t bother to unstake the nut. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled the nut. My torque wrench only reads to 150 ft-lb, so torqued to that first. Even at only 150 ft-lb, the nut went past the original starting point by a few degrees (the center of the original stake mark was within the recess, but only just). Gave it another 60* with the breaker bar and called it good.
Thanks again for the write up!
Just did this diy on my new to me 53k mile 2000 s2000. Didn’t have any discernible rear end noises, just more of a preventative maintenance job. Used a 36” 3/4” breaker bar and nut came loose pretty easy. Didn’t need pb blaster and didn’t bother to unstake the nut. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled the nut. My torque wrench only reads to 150 ft-lb, so torqued to that first. Even at only 150 ft-lb, the nut went past the original starting point by a few degrees (the center of the original stake mark was within the recess, but only just). Gave it another 60* with the breaker bar and called it good.
Thanks again for the write up!
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Slowcrash_101 (11-11-2022)
#392
do you think i would be able to reinstall using that same gun, instead of using the 3/4 stuff? removal was super easy with that gun
#394
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You're tightening to an ANGLE value.
You start at 150lb-ft of torque (or whatever), yes. But this can be done with most any 1/2" torque wrench that you can buy for $10.
Then, according to this thread, you have to go another 60 degrees.
If you're blindly going to 60 degrees ...then whether you do that with a bigassed 3/4" drive bar or an impact...it makes no difference. Mark the fastener for 60 deg of movement and move it 60 degrees. Who cares how?
Not to be insulting...but it doesn't appear anyone in this thread knows how torque and fastener tension works.
By blindly doing 150LB-FT + 60 deg, y'all are chancing breaking those axle stubs. And then having much bigger problems than a prematurely worn bearing.
If just tightening the goddamn shit out of it with a giant bar was a solution...why didn't Honda just specify that method in their TSB?
Last edited by B serious; 11-21-2022 at 11:19 AM.
#395
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#396
Honda upped the original 180ft/lbs to 220. 180 + 60 with greased nut comes out to around 260-280. Beyond the scope of most torque wrenches. 300ft/lbs is the absolute limit you want to put on there, if you do 220 + 60 you are exceeding 300ft/lbs and can break the stub axle.
I have verified this. Billman's original recommendation is safe.
The front wheel bearing is tightened to 240ft/lbs per the manual, thats a good number to shoot for in the rear. Again this value is beyond the reach or the upper limit of most cheap torque wrenches. If you have a snap on digital joint have at it. Set it to 240, grease the nut and stub and get er done.
I have verified this. Billman's original recommendation is safe.
The front wheel bearing is tightened to 240ft/lbs per the manual, thats a good number to shoot for in the rear. Again this value is beyond the reach or the upper limit of most cheap torque wrenches. If you have a snap on digital joint have at it. Set it to 240, grease the nut and stub and get er done.
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