Rear Axle Nut TSB - DIY
05-08-2015, 03:51 AM
#311
Get it to line up with the factory mark, then just go ~ +60° that will be tight enough.
05-08-2015, 03:53 AM
#312
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From what I remember it was never a tsb but an article in a Honda news publication. It called for a torque revision from 180 to 220. In straight line application, this would be fine.
Rest assured all S2000s in existence will benefit greatly from performing the revision. The UTH topics about rear hub noises and clicking never end.
If you track the car on slicks, the front axle nuts can benefit from this as well and I highly recommend it.. I have 140k hard miles on my car, all original wheel bearings.
Yes 150 ft-lbs + 60 degrees will likely be fine. Be aware of the feedback of the wrench just as you hit 60 degrees, you will feel when its right.
Rest assured all S2000s in existence will benefit greatly from performing the revision. The UTH topics about rear hub noises and clicking never end.
If you track the car on slicks, the front axle nuts can benefit from this as well and I highly recommend it.. I have 140k hard miles on my car, all original wheel bearings.
Yes 150 ft-lbs + 60 degrees will likely be fine. Be aware of the feedback of the wrench just as you hit 60 degrees, you will feel when its right.
05-08-2015, 07:12 AM
#313
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I just performed this last night using the following set from HFT http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piec...-set-5494.html not bad for $50. Obviously not something you want to own if you depend on your tools for a living but it's good enough.
I used my jack handle as a cheater on the breaker bar for extra leverage It was not hard to get to 60 degrees and Billman is correct you can definitely feel when you've gone far enough.
This did not resolve the loud clunk/grind sound I get from my rear end when turning left at zero-half throttle and speeds under 25mph I'm gonna have to assume it's the LSD sticking and hope for the best at this point. After 2 rear diff changes with nothing on the drain plug magnet I'm done looking for answers.
I used my jack handle as a cheater on the breaker bar for extra leverage It was not hard to get to 60 degrees and Billman is correct you can definitely feel when you've gone far enough.
This did not resolve the loud clunk/grind sound I get from my rear end when turning left at zero-half throttle and speeds under 25mph I'm gonna have to assume it's the LSD sticking and hope for the best at this point. After 2 rear diff changes with nothing on the drain plug magnet I'm done looking for answers.
05-08-2015, 07:39 AM
#314
I've done this as well, and the clicking is gone!
This is what I bought, effortless...
Now I don't know what I will be using these for lol. We should start a trading program where we pass on the tools to the next guy who needs to do this for little $!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GI0MCC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXUPHTW
This is what I bought, effortless...
Now I don't know what I will be using these for lol. We should start a trading program where we pass on the tools to the next guy who needs to do this for little $!http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GI0MCC
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXUPHTW
05-14-2015, 08:07 PM
#315
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Not *really* related to this issue - but here's my story...
I had clicking for the longest time. I've re-torqued the axle nuts twice (and it appeared to me that the re-torque was done before I owned the car). But I was never able to get rid of the clicking. I've been planning to do it again, since I was convinced that I wasn't getting them tight enough, but have really procrastinated and put it off (expecting that it wouldn't actually fix the problem).
Then a few weeks ago - as I'm pulling into the garage, I noticed a bolt on the floor. Sure enough - I jacked the car up and the bolt was one of the six bolts at the rear of the prop shaft!! I found two others loose at the rear and one loose at the front of the prop shaft! I blame the guys that replaced the differential before I bought the car (six years ago!). No clicking since checking the bolts...
Scary stuff - especially since the bolt could have dropped out anywhere and I wouldn't have had any idea!
So, the only reason why I post this here - is because there is a small chance your axle nut "click" isn't actually an axle nut click! It sounded to me exactly how I expected the axle nut click would sound, but it was actually a prop shaft click. So - if you have a persistent click that isn't solved by the re-torquing the axle nut, you may want to check your prop shaft bolts!
I had clicking for the longest time. I've re-torqued the axle nuts twice (and it appeared to me that the re-torque was done before I owned the car). But I was never able to get rid of the clicking. I've been planning to do it again, since I was convinced that I wasn't getting them tight enough, but have really procrastinated and put it off (expecting that it wouldn't actually fix the problem).
Then a few weeks ago - as I'm pulling into the garage, I noticed a bolt on the floor. Sure enough - I jacked the car up and the bolt was one of the six bolts at the rear of the prop shaft!! I found two others loose at the rear and one loose at the front of the prop shaft! I blame the guys that replaced the differential before I bought the car (six years ago!). No clicking since checking the bolts...
Scary stuff - especially since the bolt could have dropped out anywhere and I wouldn't have had any idea!
So, the only reason why I post this here - is because there is a small chance your axle nut "click" isn't actually an axle nut click! It sounded to me exactly how I expected the axle nut click would sound, but it was actually a prop shaft click. So - if you have a persistent click that isn't solved by the re-torquing the axle nut, you may want to check your prop shaft bolts!
07-31-2015, 12:51 PM
#316
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I just did this today since I've been hearing a single "pop" noise from the rear of the vehicle when setting off in 1st or reverse.
I am glad I went out to buy a 3/4 breaker bar. I probably wouldn't have succeeded with my 1/2 breaker break bar.
I took the nut off without unstaking it. Lubed the back of the nut (not the threads) and torqued it down to 180ft-lbs. Surprisingly at 180ft-lb it is slightly past the original stake mark. I drew a 12 o'clock line using a sharpie and turned it to 2 o'clock. Then I staked the nut using a flathead screwdriver.
My questions:
I have never staked a nut before. Is the stake mark suppose to be touching the bolt, or is it okay as long as there is a good "dent" in the stake area? Does it look like I got it to the right angle and staked the nut properly? (see pictures)
I am glad I went out to buy a 3/4 breaker bar. I probably wouldn't have succeeded with my 1/2 breaker break bar.
I took the nut off without unstaking it. Lubed the back of the nut (not the threads) and torqued it down to 180ft-lbs. Surprisingly at 180ft-lb it is slightly past the original stake mark. I drew a 12 o'clock line using a sharpie and turned it to 2 o'clock. Then I staked the nut using a flathead screwdriver.
My questions:
I have never staked a nut before. Is the stake mark suppose to be touching the bolt, or is it okay as long as there is a good "dent" in the stake area? Does it look like I got it to the right angle and staked the nut properly? (see pictures)
07-31-2015, 02:51 PM
#317
That's fine, and to be honest staking is only to see if the bolt is backing out, because even staked it can be removed. You really smashed that nut btw
08-06-2015, 02:15 PM
#318
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Thanks OP, and to the others who have contributed greatly to this thread. With the help of this thread this is an easy DIY project. Did this to my '02 today with very good success. Just to see if there was a difference, I unstaked one wheel to remove the nut and the other wheel I removed the nut without unstaking it first. I used a 4' piece of pipe to add leverage to my 2' breaker bar. I'm a small old guy, so I needed all the help I could get. There was very little difference in the degree of difficulty to remove either axle nut. Neither nut was overly difficult to remove. Then greased the nuts, retorqued and restaked per this thread. Again, thanks to all for making this an enjoyable project. 
08-06-2015, 04:21 PM
#319
Hello,
I found this awsome thread, as I have the same sound coming from one of my axles. I was affraid there might be a serious issue, bcoz it sounds dangerous! but if this is the fix im really glad.
1 question I havent seen asked: If you have to move 60 degrees beyond the factory setting (my car is 00), why do you need to remove the nut first and then refit, retighten, and push 60 degrees beyond.
Why cant you do the 60 degrees straight on without removing the nut first??
Hope somebody can tell me. Im eager to understand/learn!
I found this awsome thread, as I have the same sound coming from one of my axles. I was affraid there might be a serious issue, bcoz it sounds dangerous! but if this is the fix im really glad.
1 question I havent seen asked: If you have to move 60 degrees beyond the factory setting (my car is 00), why do you need to remove the nut first and then refit, retighten, and push 60 degrees beyond.
Why cant you do the 60 degrees straight on without removing the nut first??
Hope somebody can tell me. Im eager to understand/learn!
08-06-2015, 05:28 PM
#320
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Hello,
I found this awsome thread, as I have the same sound coming from one of my axles. I was affraid there might be a serious issue, bcoz it sounds dangerous! but if this is the fix im really glad.
1 question I havent seen asked: If you have to move 60 degrees beyond the factory setting (my car is 00), why do you need to remove the nut first and then refit, retighten, and push 60 degrees beyond.
Why cant you do the 60 degrees straight on without removing the nut first??
Hope somebody can tell me. Im eager to understand/learn!
I found this awsome thread, as I have the same sound coming from one of my axles. I was affraid there might be a serious issue, bcoz it sounds dangerous! but if this is the fix im really glad.
1 question I havent seen asked: If you have to move 60 degrees beyond the factory setting (my car is 00), why do you need to remove the nut first and then refit, retighten, and push 60 degrees beyond.
Why cant you do the 60 degrees straight on without removing the nut first??
Hope somebody can tell me. Im eager to understand/learn!
The axle nut has to be removed so that you can apply a thin coat of grease to the back of the nut [not to the threads themselves]. This applied grease will reduce friction so you will able to tighten the nut to the new specified torque. Without the grease I am not sure you will be able to achieve the new torque settings.