Rear Axle Nut TSB - DIY
02-16-2012, 07:24 AM
#11
Registered User
How much torque do you think it took to do this to my spindle?
(I have no idea, it was somebody else who was working on my car, to replace a failed bearing. Maybe I had a spindle pre-disposed to failure?)
(I have no idea, it was somebody else who was working on my car, to replace a failed bearing. Maybe I had a spindle pre-disposed to failure?)
02-16-2012, 09:32 AM
#12
Moderator
I'm not sure what the modern shop air guns can achieve, but I'm pretty sure it is over 700 ft-lbs of torque. Especially if the shop air is cranked up to 160 psi, and the air is run through an Ingersol-Rand thunder gun capable of such torque. Those tools should not be in the hands of anyone. Seriously. They do more damage than good in an untrained hand.
02-17-2012, 03:29 AM
#15
Moderator
If you're ebrake is way up to snuff, you might be able to do it with the wheel off. You then run the risk of pushing the car off the jackstand 
Highly recommend doing it with the car on the ground. If you cant get your caps off due to different wheels, take the wheels off, push the caps out, then put the wheels back on.
Highly recommend doing it with the car on the ground. If you cant get your caps off due to different wheels, take the wheels off, push the caps out, then put the wheels back on.
02-17-2012, 08:07 AM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
wanted to chime in and say i did this, but when i did it i was fortunate enough to have a neighbor that lent me a 600ft lb snap-on diesel mechanics torque wrench. after greasing when my axle nuts got to "2-oclock" i was at about 380-400 ft lbs. since then i have put on about 10k miles with no clicks, and no adverse side effects.cheers! 
02-17-2012, 08:41 AM
#17
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To start off, this is for the REAR of the car only. I know someone will ask no need to concern yourself with the front hubs.
To answer if 250 is too much....250 is not even remotely close to "too much" when working with a nut this size, or an axle shaft meant to do the job intended...act as a bearing-race clamp.
When turning the 3/4" drive breaker bar after tightening the nut to 180-200 or so, it takes almost no effort at all. You can "feel" that the nut is quite loose at 200 ft-lbs. How is this so? Because 1/2 drive tools, impacts, ANY 1/2" tool just does not have the capacity to pull this nut down properly. Just as you cannot use 1/4" drive to tighten your lug nuts Sounds funny, but it is all facts.
For reference, the little crank pulley bolt gets OILED and torqued to 192 ft-lbs.
It will be very easy to start the big wrench moving. once you get near 60 degrees, you will "feel" that nut get TIGHT. this is where it needs to be.
So my advice to anyone who had torqued there rear axle nuts under 300 ft-lbs is to start over.
I can assure you all at 240 ft-lbs, your wheel bearings and hubs will fail if you do any type of spirited driving.
I'm at 115k on original hubs and wheel bearings. This also includes a car that has done 9 Dragon weekends (500 miles per year of hard twisties, consuming a set of tires in one weekend) drifting, auto X, and track.
Follow DIY with confidence.
no need to concern yourself with the front hubs.To answer if 250 is too much....250 is not even remotely close to "too much" when working with a nut this size, or an axle shaft meant to do the job intended...act as a bearing-race clamp.
When turning the 3/4" drive breaker bar after tightening the nut to 180-200 or so, it takes almost no effort at all. You can "feel" that the nut is quite loose at 200 ft-lbs. How is this so? Because 1/2 drive tools, impacts, ANY 1/2" tool just does not have the capacity to pull this nut down properly. Just as you cannot use 1/4" drive to tighten your lug nuts
Sounds funny, but it is all facts.For reference, the little crank pulley bolt gets OILED and torqued to 192 ft-lbs.
It will be very easy to start the big wrench moving. once you get near 60 degrees, you will "feel" that nut get TIGHT. this is where it needs to be.
So my advice to anyone who had torqued there rear axle nuts under 300 ft-lbs is to start over.
I can assure you all at 240 ft-lbs, your wheel bearings and hubs will fail if you do any type of spirited driving.
I'm at 115k on original hubs and wheel bearings. This also includes a car that has done 9 Dragon weekends (500 miles per year of hard twisties, consuming a set of tires in one weekend) drifting, auto X, and track.
Follow DIY with confidence.
02-17-2012, 08:48 AM
#18
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first of thanks for doing this DYI.
when moving the stake point (point of reference) from where it is now to 2 'clock or 60 degree, does that put the nut at 240 ft-lbs? or is it above 300 ft-lbs suggested by billman.
where can I purchase a staking tool? habor freight? do you think they would carry the 36mm socket as well?
when moving the stake point (point of reference) from where it is now to 2 'clock or 60 degree, does that put the nut at 240 ft-lbs? or is it above 300 ft-lbs suggested by billman.
where can I purchase a staking tool? habor freight? do you think they would carry the 36mm socket as well?
02-17-2012, 11:23 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
240-250 ft-lbs is no where near enough. On my car 250 ft-lbs moved the nut 11 degrees from it's starting position. When Billman was done tightening it, it had moved 68 degrees from the starting position.
Harbor Freight doesn't seem to carry a 36mm socket. You can get it from Amazon or as JackS pointed out, Lowes.
Harbor Freight doesn't seem to carry a 36mm socket. You can get it from Amazon or as JackS pointed out, Lowes.
02-17-2012, 11:24 AM
#20
Did this DIY today for the first time. Took all of 20 minutes. Could have been quicker but I had to take the wheels off to pop out the center caps.
He is saying 240 is too low. It will only move the nut about 12 degrees.
It puts it far above 240 ft-lbs. You can rent the socket for free from O'Reillys or you can optionally buy it from them for 10 dollars.
when moving the stake point (point of reference) from where it is now to 2 'clock or 60 degree, does that put the nut at 240 ft-lbs? or is it above 300 ft-lbs suggested by billman.
where can I purchase a staking tool? habor freight? do you think they would carry the 36mm socket as well?
where can I purchase a staking tool? habor freight? do you think they would carry the 36mm socket as well?