Radiator Leak
#21
The drain plug for the engine block is in the most frustrating location.
Its a 19mm hex.
Once you get your arms snaked thru the subframe openings, though, its possible to break it loose with minimal injury to your forearms. Let a single tear run down your face to let the world know you've experienced pain.
Buy the engine block's drain plug gasket from Honda.
Clean the plug's threads and face with a wire brush and brake cleaner while its out.
Clean the blocks threads with a rag soaked in brake cleaner.
Buy Hondabond to put on the plug's threads when you put it back in.
Torque is 61LB-FT, IIRC.
Buy 2 gallons of Honda coolant. Use a bleeder funnel. Buy 3 gallons if you'd like to have extra coolant.
Its a 19mm hex.
Once you get your arms snaked thru the subframe openings, though, its possible to break it loose with minimal injury to your forearms. Let a single tear run down your face to let the world know you've experienced pain.
Buy the engine block's drain plug gasket from Honda.
Clean the plug's threads and face with a wire brush and brake cleaner while its out.
Clean the blocks threads with a rag soaked in brake cleaner.
Buy Hondabond to put on the plug's threads when you put it back in.
Torque is 61LB-FT, IIRC.
Buy 2 gallons of Honda coolant. Use a bleeder funnel. Buy 3 gallons if you'd like to have extra coolant.
I'm not sure how much is held in the engine and your description of the process reminds me of the fun of pulling the intake manifold or the starter. Lots of arm wounds and cursing.
I have only a quart of type 2 left over from last time so it seems I used right at the 6.9 quarts that are supposed to go in. Plus the Koyo holds a little more I believe. I'll swing by Honda and get 2 gallons.
Thanks.
#22
Doesn't seem like many people drain the block unless they are removing the engine, and I didn't last time I changed the coolant. Is this recommended?
I'm not sure how much is held in the engine and your description of the process reminds me of the fun of pulling the intake manifold or the starter. Lots of arm wounds and cursing.
I have only a quart of type 2 left over from last time so it seems I used right at the 6.9 quarts that are supposed to go in. Plus the Koyo holds a little more I believe. I'll swing by Honda and get 2 gallons.
Thanks.
I'm not sure how much is held in the engine and your description of the process reminds me of the fun of pulling the intake manifold or the starter. Lots of arm wounds and cursing.
I have only a quart of type 2 left over from last time so it seems I used right at the 6.9 quarts that are supposed to go in. Plus the Koyo holds a little more I believe. I'll swing by Honda and get 2 gallons.
Thanks.
I always drain the block when I do a coolant flush.
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BrewDay09 (09-02-2022)
#23
I just ordered a Koyo for my 2003 with 122k miles. It hasn't leaked yet but I track the car so I'm considering it preventative. Plus, Evasive is having a Labor Day sale so I picked it up with some other on-sale goodies.
Do you recall how much coolant was needed to refill after the change? I replaced the coolant about 10,000 miles ago so I don't feel the need for a full drain and flush.
Thanks.
Do you recall how much coolant was needed to refill after the change? I replaced the coolant about 10,000 miles ago so I don't feel the need for a full drain and flush.
Thanks.
Even if you don't plan on doing a full flush remember there will be a lot of left over residual coolant left over in the old rad. So even if you don't plan to need two full gallons you will, since your new rad will have zero coolant in it.
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BrewDay09 (09-02-2022)
#25
I think CSF makes good stuff, in general.
Not sure if there's a big enough sample size within the S2000 community to say whether or not their S2000 specific products are prone to leaking or other defects.
The Koyo is just tried and true. Not that its the only one worth considering. Its a safe bet.
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Slowcrash_101 (09-03-2022)
#26
When I did my coolant change, I did not drain the engine block. I wonder if a much earlier coolant change would help remove most of the "old" coolant, now mixed and diluted with the new, much like the "turkey baster" method of refreshing the clutch fluid. I might add the old original coolant seemed to be in pretty pristine shape, indistinguishable from the fresh Honda coolant I was putting in. I did not perform an actual flush, just drain and replace a la Billman. (My Lyle funnel did not come with a radiator attachment that would fit. I wound up with 2 identical fittings in the mix of stuff that came with it)
#28
Sorry if this is a little long but the short answer is yes. The radiator and fan switch are easy to replace. Basically you drain the coolant, removing the fan shroud, radiator, and you'll have to remove your upper rad hose and loosen the lower as well. You do not need to worry about any overspill as you can put the bucket under it. You can also leave the engine at operating temperature for this job. The fan shroud is just a couple of long bolts and the radiator held down by some of the same. Just be careful with the upper rad hose, it has a metal clamp on the top, I've always just put a couple of zip ties on it to hold it back out of the way.
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JJG2k (09-09-2022)
#30
Just get yourself something like this and make your life easier when it comes to clamps. I believe this one is like their older one and locks in place as well, so on those harder to reach ones, you can keep the clamp locked open with the tool until you put it back in place. Dad has had a Lisle one for years and years at his shop. As mentioned, as much as people hate on them, these are the best hose clamp you can use and I would never replace one with a worm drive clamp