Radiator Flush
09-25-2010, 05:52 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no I know how to empty it out, but one thing that Im not sure about is bleeding the air out, hmm how can I do that ?
does that mean to turn on the car and after little bit check the radiator and add on more coolant or what ? thanks,
does that mean to turn on the car and after little bit check the radiator and add on more coolant or what ? thanks,
09-25-2010, 09:07 PM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Billman250,Sep 25 2010, 05:20 PM
Use honda Type 2 blue coolant. No mixing, ready to go.
I would not flush it with water. This system is one of the best designed and remains completely spotless.
drain the radiator. Small white petcock in the bottom center. By design, the block will drain also.
The most important part is to bleed the air out when filling. Many people have done engine damage by driving with air in the system. This car can go FIFTEEN MILES and be fine, then overheat suddenly.
Bleed until the heat blows good hot air.
I would not flush it with water. This system is one of the best designed and remains completely spotless.
drain the radiator. Small white petcock in the bottom center. By design, the block will drain also.
The most important part is to bleed the air out when filling. Many people have done engine damage by driving with air in the system. This car can go FIFTEEN MILES and be fine, then overheat suddenly.
Bleed until the heat blows good hot air.
How exactly do you bleed the system? Is it just by having the heat on max when finished? Should the car be on?
09-28-2010, 03:20 AM
#25
leave the 2 bleed locations open until a steady stream appears out of them. From what I remember the one near the firewall is the first to purge. After that go for a drive for 3 bars, then let the car cool down, check your radiator and overflow after to double check your work.
09-28-2010, 03:37 AM
#26
Moderator
S2000 coolant bleed:
Park car with nose elevated slightly (as long as nose is not going downhill you will be ok)
Fill the radiator slowly with the front bleeder open, dont even bother with the one on the firewall. It does not work as intended.
Close bleeder. Turn heat on high. Start car, idle to operating temp (3 bars on ap1) or hold at 2500 rpm to speed process.
TURN CAR OFF.
1 Open bleeder a very small amount, slowly....just enough to hear the air hissing out.
let it sit until all hissing stops, 5-30 seconds.
2 Once hissing stops, squeeze the upper radiator hose completely flat with your hand covered with a rag, addition hissing/air will come out. Hold it flat until all hissing has stopped. Close bleeder WHILE HOSE IS SQUEEZED. Then release hose.
3 Open radiator cap, fill to top. Replace cap.
Run car another 2 minutes at 2500 rpm, shut off, repeat 1-2-3 bleed above.
Repeat until all air is out, and heat blows HOT air....not warm air. You'll know it's hot when the temp changes sharply and is close to burning your fingers.
Once the heat turns hot, one more bleed cycle is all you need to be safe.
The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.
Park car with nose elevated slightly (as long as nose is not going downhill you will be ok)
Fill the radiator slowly with the front bleeder open, dont even bother with the one on the firewall. It does not work as intended.
Close bleeder. Turn heat on high. Start car, idle to operating temp (3 bars on ap1) or hold at 2500 rpm to speed process.
TURN CAR OFF.
1 Open bleeder a very small amount, slowly....just enough to hear the air hissing out.
let it sit until all hissing stops, 5-30 seconds.
2 Once hissing stops, squeeze the upper radiator hose completely flat with your hand covered with a rag, addition hissing/air will come out. Hold it flat until all hissing has stopped. Close bleeder WHILE HOSE IS SQUEEZED. Then release hose.
3 Open radiator cap, fill to top. Replace cap.
Run car another 2 minutes at 2500 rpm, shut off, repeat 1-2-3 bleed above.
Repeat until all air is out, and heat blows HOT air....not warm air. You'll know it's hot when the temp changes sharply and is close to burning your fingers.
Once the heat turns hot, one more bleed cycle is all you need to be safe.
The key here is never open the bleeder with the car running. If you read carefully you will see at no point do you do so. All that will do is waste coolant, and stop you from getting the air out.
09-28-2010, 07:37 AM
#27
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 463
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm planning on doing this soon. I've never drained the coolant on my engine (68K miles on it) but I always check the level. I haven't done it sooner because the coolant or the reservoir don't seem dirty at all.
09-28-2010, 11:31 AM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Billman250,Sep 25 2010, 05:20 PM
Use honda Type 2 blue coolant. No mixing, ready to go.
I would not flush it with water. This system is one of the best designed and remains completely spotless.
drain the radiator. Small white petcock in the bottom center. By design, the block will drain also.
The most important part is to bleed the air out when filling. Many people have done engine damage by driving with air in the system. This car can go FIFTEEN MILES and be fine, then overheat suddenly.
Bleed until the heat blows good hot air.
I would not flush it with water. This system is one of the best designed and remains completely spotless.
drain the radiator. Small white petcock in the bottom center. By design, the block will drain also.
The most important part is to bleed the air out when filling. Many people have done engine damage by driving with air in the system. This car can go FIFTEEN MILES and be fine, then overheat suddenly.
Bleed until the heat blows good hot air.
im planning on doing this for the first time on my MY04 with close to 60k miles, it used to have (assuming) type II coolant but green stuff, new one is blue, don't i need to flush the whole system before i get the new "blue" coolant in there? if mixed (green and blue) looks very dark
thanks
