knifegun

I just completed installing the AEM V2 intake on my car. Part of the procedure required draining about 1 gallon of radiator fluid.

So after completing the install, I simply poured the radiator fluid back into the radiator until it was filled to the "neck" and dumped rest into the reserve tank. The fluid is above the Max line in the reserve tank but I figured I should ensure that I put everything back I took out.

The screw up is that I read the owners manual AFTERWARD and saw that you are supposed to replace the coolant drain plug washer everytime you open it, need to go through a process of opening the bleeder valve, etc.

My question is whether I should go ahead and change the radiator fluid as indicated in the manual to make sure that I do not run into any overheating problems as a result?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Shadow_S2K

I never had to removed any radiator fluid during my AEM install...I don't think you need to replace the darin plug and washer. But you do have to make sure there is no air inside.

xviper

Honda recommends replacing any washer or gasket whenever you work on that part. For example, they want you to replace the oil drain washer and fill washers on the oil pan, tranny fluid and diff. They say this as a matter of precaution. Many of us have re-used such washers several times without issue. Personally, I've done a complete flush of the cooling system and never replaced this washer. If it doesn't leak, you're fine.

Boit

From my personal experience with the S's cooling system, I think it's FAR more important that you watch you temp. bars closely. The reason I say that is that I had to have my engine replaced this past spring. Naturally, I had to put some miles on it after picking it up to make sure everything was OK. During the test miles, I was watching my temp. gauge like a hawk. After about 75 miles, everything seemed OK, but as I was driving along at about 55 mph I noticed that I now had 4 bars instead of the normal 3. To my horror, 4 bars went suddenly to 5 and then quickly to 6. I immediately shut the engine off, pull to the should, and popped the hood open to check for a leak. Everything appeared normal with no abnormal odors and no detectable leakage. There just didn't seem to be an overheating problem at all. I put a rag on the radiator cap and slowly cracked it open to the first click and only got a little steam/air out of the overflow. I had the left-over coolant from the shop in my trunk so I topped it off and continued on my way. 21,000 miles and no more problems. Obviously, there was just enough air trapped in the system that the circulation had suddenly stopped when that air pocket prevented the pump from doing its job. Lesson learned? This coolant system is very susceptible to vapor locking. I was amazed at just how fast the temperature increased when that air pocket caused steam to heat the sensor quickly....and falsely. Actually, the engine never overheated. Once I restarted the engine, it went immediately back to 3 bars. I would recommend that you start your cold engine and then once the temp. hits 2 bars, loosen the radiator cap to the first safety catch until it gets up to 3 bars and then close it. This should bleed the air out. Also, use the recommended bleed(Schrader valve) on the block as well since air will seek the highest part in the system. Hope that helps.

knifegun

Thanks for the replies. So i went ahead unscrewed the bleeder bolt and uncapped the bleeder cap. At this point, colant air bubbles gurgled up for a bit. When the stopped, I tightened the bleeder bolt and put the bleeder cap back on. I ran the engine as suggested until 2 bars and stopped the engine. I turned the radiator cap to 1 click and a some colant spilled out.

Maybe I went beyond 1 click...If not, why does it come out?

I then uncapped the bleeder and unscrewed the bleeder bolt. Almost no bubbles came out this time.

Should I keep following the process I have been doing or am I done? Should I follow the last steps in the manual suggesting that the engine be revved at 1500 RPMs until the fan comes on with the radiator cap off?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

Boit

At this point, about all you can do is drive the car and keep a VERY close eye on the temp. bars. Also carry some extra coolant in your trunk for just in case. Apparently, this system is a bit tricky in getting all the air out. Once you do, it will be fine. We have a great coooling system as long as the air is purged.

knifegun

I thnk I was able to get all the air out of the system and finally was able to test drive the car with no issue. Thank you all for your replies!