Questionable Dyno figures on my AP1...
01-12-2007, 07:20 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by TrackStar,Jan 12 2007, 07:58 AM
I'm refering to your ignition timing. For ecu tuning, the more money you spend, the better the results. Those vafc things can't adjust ignition timing, only the a/f ratio, which is probably all you need. You car is going to be running rich, and leaning it out will make you more power.
Thanks for the clarification
01-12-2007, 08:13 AM
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After I first got my car, totally stock, it dyno'd at 204 whp. Shortly after that I installed a Mugen header and exhaust and an AEM intake. With those mods, on the same dyno the car only got 189 whp. Thats when I decided the only way to make power was turbo. I have yet to see a header that makes more power than the stock one.
01-12-2007, 08:19 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by fperra,Jan 12 2007, 12:13 PM
After I first got my car, totally stock, it dyno'd at 204 whp. Shortly after that I installed a Mugen header and exhaust and an AEM intake. With those mods, on the same dyno the car only got 189 whp. Thats when I decided the only way to make power was turbo. I have yet to see a header that makes more power than the stock one.
Your car sick btw 
01-12-2007, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TrackStar,Jan 12 2007, 09:19 AM
Not even the J's header? Your car sick btw
Your car sick btw ZiTrO, next time you dyno, reset the ECU before you get on the rollers. I'll bet you pick up 5 - 10 whp.
01-12-2007, 09:01 AM
#16
Originally Posted by fperra,Jan 12 2007, 09:13 AM
After I first got my car, totally stock, it dyno'd at 204 whp. Shortly after that I installed a Mugen header and exhaust and an AEM intake. With those mods, on the same dyno the car only got 189 whp. Thats when I decided the only way to make power was turbo. I have yet to see a header that makes more power than the stock one.
All "power" mods are peeing in a bucket for questionable gains except for FI.
Go gears and you'll be able to use your horsepower better. It doesn't change your hp to rpm numbers, but does change your hp @ xx mph curve (pushes curve to the left).
IMHO: get something like an accelerometer to test your "real world" performance. You can then use it in other cars to test how they fare in comparison. And it helps to check youself after modifications and whether or not your engine is running at full performance.
The absolute numbers on the accelerometer may not match the car mags, but the relative times should be consistent if you run on the same flat road. And the nice thing is that you can do 0-60 runs without breaking the posted speed limit!
Merely chasing peak hp numbers is like measuring swing speed in golf. It's only a surrogate for distance. But if you can't execute, you can have a 120mph swing and a 70 yard drive.... Same thing with the dyno. If you get 20 hp extra at peak... at 8900 rpm - 9000 rpm, yippee for you. I'd rather have my 20 hp less at peak, but a flatter hp curve yielding a higher AUC (area under the curve).
For example, my stock 0-60 was ~5.5 sec with a standard "launch."
My Comptech SC (5#) with AC and 4.57 gears was 4.7 sec on snow tires....
Both these times were reproducible within 1-2 tenths across different days.
Maybe I'll drop another 10th after I install the higher boost pulley sitting on my desk.... meh, I'll wait until Spring and try it with my S02s.
01-12-2007, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyraid2K,Jan 12 2007, 08:24 AM
i know its not very accurate but what does your butt dyno read?
do you honestly feel like the car is faster?
do you honestly feel like the car is faster?
01-12-2007, 09:43 AM
#18
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You might want to get a compression test. Those are pretty low. The 18" wheels are hurting you, but it should not be that much. Note that the DynaPack takes the reading at the hub, so it should eliminate hp drag caused by wheel weight.
01-12-2007, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by fperra,Jan 12 2007, 09:13 AM
After I first got my car, totally stock, it dyno'd at 204 whp. Shortly after that I installed a Mugen header and exhaust and an AEM intake. With those mods, on the same dyno the car only got 189 whp. Thats when I decided the only way to make power was turbo. I have yet to see a header that makes more power than the stock one.
If it can be inaccurate, how about in terms of the A/F ratio in the dyno sheet, can it also be affected by the inaccuracy?
01-12-2007, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by CKit,Jan 12 2007, 10:01 AM
All "power" mods are peeing in a bucket for questionable gains except for FI.
Go gears and you'll be able to use your horsepower better. It doesn't change your hp to rpm numbers, but does change your hp @ xx mph curve (pushes curve to the left).
IMHO: get something like an accelerometer to test your "real world" performance. You can then use it in other cars to test how they fare in comparison. And it helps to check youself after modifications and whether or not your engine is running at full performance.
The absolute numbers on the accelerometer may not match the car mags, but the relative times should be consistent if you run on the same flat road. And the nice thing is that you can do 0-60 runs without breaking the posted speed limit!
Merely chasing peak hp numbers is like measuring swing speed in golf. It's only a surrogate for distance. But if you can't execute, you can have a 120mph swing and a 70 yard drive.... Same thing with the dyno. If you get 20 hp extra at peak... at 8900 rpm - 9000 rpm, yippee for you. I'd rather have my 20 hp less at peak, but a flatter hp curve yielding a higher AUC (area under the curve).
For example, my stock 0-60 was ~5.5 sec with a standard "launch."
My Comptech SC (5#) with AC and 4.57 gears was 4.7 sec on snow tires....
Both these times were reproducible within 1-2 tenths across different days.
Maybe I'll drop another 10th after I install the higher boost pulley sitting on my desk.... meh, I'll wait until Spring and try it with my S02s.
Thanks for the infos man, definitely appreciate it.