Question regarding F22c
#1
Question regarding F22c
Hi all,
I'm in the process of buying an engine for my S2k, since my original F22c finally took a dump.
I found a F22c for sale that is out of the CR, verified the VIN and everything seems legit so I'm about to make a purchase and have it shipped.
However one concern I have is that the Compression test readings the seller has sent me reads extremely high.
I've never seen such figures before (or maybe I just didn't search enough, who knows)
I'd like to gauge some ideas from here before making a final decision.
Again the motor is out of 08 CR, with 60k miles on the clock.
Compression test and leakdown test figures are as follows:
Compression test
#1 290
#2 291
#3 285
#4 290
Leakdown test
#1 0%
#2 1%
#3 3%
#4 1%
The seller claims that the testing was done when the engine was cold.
Should I be worried and sway away from this motor and find another one? or am I going to be fine with it?
Any inputs will be greatly apppreciated.
Thanks!
I'm in the process of buying an engine for my S2k, since my original F22c finally took a dump.
I found a F22c for sale that is out of the CR, verified the VIN and everything seems legit so I'm about to make a purchase and have it shipped.
However one concern I have is that the Compression test readings the seller has sent me reads extremely high.
I've never seen such figures before (or maybe I just didn't search enough, who knows)
I'd like to gauge some ideas from here before making a final decision.
Again the motor is out of 08 CR, with 60k miles on the clock.
Compression test and leakdown test figures are as follows:
Compression test
#1 290
#2 291
#3 285
#4 290
Leakdown test
#1 0%
#2 1%
#3 3%
#4 1%
The seller claims that the testing was done when the engine was cold.
Should I be worried and sway away from this motor and find another one? or am I going to be fine with it?
Any inputs will be greatly apppreciated.
Thanks!
#2
With compression tests the absolute values can vary with the gauge used and testing procedure. IMO The important thing is that the readings are very close between the 4 cylinders
What year is your car?
If its a 00-05, keep in mind that you will need to swap some parts from your original motor. Like crank sensor/trigger wheel, cam sensors/trigger wheels,valve cover, coilpacks, and your intake manifold including fuel rail/throttle body/etc.
What year is your car?
If its a 00-05, keep in mind that you will need to swap some parts from your original motor. Like crank sensor/trigger wheel, cam sensors/trigger wheels,valve cover, coilpacks, and your intake manifold including fuel rail/throttle body/etc.
#3
Thanks.
Mine is 07, so I'm assuming it will be a direct swap, since my car already is a DBW.
So I should be worrying about whether each value are within close range rather than the value itself, correct?
Mine is 07, so I'm assuming it will be a direct swap, since my car already is a DBW.
So I should be worrying about whether each value are within close range rather than the value itself, correct?
#5
To be very honest, I would pay for a shop that I as the buyer chose to do the compression and leak down test. If numbers are good then, make the purchase, if not swallow the $75 loss
#6
who I can trust to do the compression & leakdown test for me.
#7
Where in FL?
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#9
Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1437516276' post='23688295
Where in FL?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291495007881
This is the motor I'm talking about on this post right now.
#10
Originally Posted by helothere' timestamp='1437517567' post='23688310
[quote name='Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1437516276' post='23688295']
Where in FL?
Where in FL?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291495007881
This is the motor I'm talking about on this post right now.
[/quote]
Thanks for the input.
I did end up purchasing the motor.