busaboy

I've got ALL the stock shocks out with a spring compressor and a crappy pry bar. Didn't remove anything from the suspension except the swaybar link. I didn't disconnect anything else on the suspension. I think you MUST use a spring compressor. Bought mine from a local parts store for about $35 or $40.

cdelena

I disagree.. I do mine and each one comes out in a minute or two without problems (with my experimentation of have had mine out three or four times already).

Of course you do remove the brake line where it mounts to the shock (you could remove the ABS lead but I don't), and remove the upper and lower shock bolts. Loosen the upper wishbone mounts and you will see the preload on those bushings release. I sit in front of the hub and brace the unit with my legs when I remove the bolts (if you have it high on a lift you might want to wire it to limit movement).. it drops down and with one hand you can pull the shock out.

On the rear the trick is to remove the preload and they come right out. That means making sure both wheels are off the ground (and maybe even loosening the swaybar mounts.. I think I have done it with and without). Then be sure to loosen the upper wishbone bolts that hold the preload in the rubber bushings.. the suspension will drop so you can easily remove the shock.

Any use of compressors in my garage is done on the workbench.. I cannot imagine trying to do that on the car..

When reassembling you need to lift the entire weight of the corner with the suspension before final tightening.

This is really not that hard after you have had practice..

Prolene

Wire the hub or just the upper wishbone..? I have the car on jacks low enough that I think I can hold the assembly as you described with my knee/legs as the bolts are removed or have someone help hold the assembly to prevent undue tension on wires, etc.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cdelena
[B]On the rear the trick is to remove the preload and they come right out. That means making sure both wheels are off the ground (and maybe even loosening the swaybar mounts.. I think I have done it with and without). Then be sure to loosen the upper wishbone bolts that hold the preload in the rubber bushings.. the suspension will drop so you can easily remove the shock.

Any use of compressors in my garage is done on the workbench.. I cannot imagine trying to do that on the car..

cdelena

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Prolene
[B]Wire the hub or just the upper wishbone..?

The Reverend

How did you all have so much trouble with the ball joints that you were all reinventing the wheel just to avoid disconnecting it??? It's really not that hard as long as you have a 2-arm gear puller or the tool that RT has.

Prolene, just pop the ball joint - BELIEVE me, it's not that hard to do. It'll make a loud noise when it pops, but it's not a big deal!

RT

[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]........
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RT, where the hell did you get that tool?!

RT

[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]How did you all have so much trouble with the ball joints that you were all reinventing the wheel just to avoid disconnecting it???

vapors2k

shiat, I wish I had read this thread before having a go with the front installing tien RS spec coil-overs. The rear was cake, only trouble was the tight spot on the upper driver side shock mount loosing and tightening those nuts with the fuel lines in the way. I really got frustrated with the front ball joint. I tried popping it out from the lower arm but it doesn't want to budge and now I tore the boot. Does anyone have a picture of the 2 arm gear puller so I can see what I need to get? I tried looking for that tool in the service manuel but no luck and I have to remove the ball joint from the lower arm now in order to replace that torn boot. thnx

Ardy

Prolene

Ardy, check this picture out... https://www.s2ki.com/forums/photo.php?actio...5330&size=large

Also, The Rev suggests buying Craftsman medium size 2 arm gear puller and blunt the sharp point(s).

I saw the picture of the tool in the service manual where it decribes coil/damper removal.

I do not want to inadvertently tear the boot, and thus I think I will do the upper arm disconnect route.

I don't have the manual with me now to find the pages.

Hope all goes well.

vapors2k

thnx prolene, I ran over to pep boys earlier and got one of their free rental tools, a 2 arm gear puller. That was the trick to "pop" out that stubborn ball joint. I wish I had done that before rather than being frustrated and taking a pickle fork to the joint and tearing the boot (already ordered a new boot for $9 plus my time to replace it). There's no need to take apart any other bolts besides the lower ball joint as the manuel says on section 18-10 I think in the older version. Depending on how you have the car up in the air, you may need to remove the bolt holding in the joint for the sway bar in order to have the control arm to go down more to squezze out the stock coil-over for the new one. I did one side by myself using one leg to push down the lower control arm (after removing the ball joint) and one arm holding up the knuckle assembly while using the other arm to manuever the coil-over assembly out. It's much easier to have a second person press down the control arm and hold the steering knuckle assembly while you manuever out the coilover with two hands. The remote resovoirs in the front made it pretty tricky to get them in there, but I'm sure it'll be easier with other set-ups. This was definatly something I would want to do only once as it's a killer on the lower back! And last time I saw your car, didn't you have spoon wheels??? just an FYI, it will rub on the front if you lower the car using spoon 35mm offset wheels in the front with STOCK tire sizing (205/55) as I just realised I need to do something about it, it will rub too in the rear if you are running 245/45. Now I have to raise the car up a tad, arg!