Prolene

What if I used spring compressors? Will use of these obviate need to disconnect the lower arm?

RT

My guess is no, but it's definitely worth a try!

Prolene

Why does the lower arm need disconnecting? To give enough clearance to get the damper out? If so, shortening the damper with spring compression should work, unless something else is at work here. If the 'problem' is something else besides clearance, I'll disconnect the arm.

Prolene

I think with spring compression to take damper out, I realize it might be tricky to undo the compressor without the spring really violently decompressing, if the spring is under compression even at maximum lower arm extension. I'll have to be careful and leave plenty of room for the compressor to stretch on extension. I'll post results after I try this a few days from now.

RT

Al, the problem that I think you might run into is the fact that the spring compressor being present will reduce the angle you can tilt the assembly to try and clear the lower arm. The sleeved in space around the upper half of the assembly is sort of tight already (pre-spring compressor).
Like I said, it's definitely worth a try
Tell us how it goes.

What The!?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Prolene
[B]Is it really necessary to remove the front lower arm ball joint from the knuckle in order to remove the front damper?

cdelena

[QUOTE]Originally posted by What The!?
[B]Ok correct me if i'm wrong, but I'm assuming damper = shock/spring right? If it is, you don't need to take apart the ball joint in order to get the shock out. That is a major PITA!

Prolene

Thanks, Cdelena and What The!?. That method seems to be the one I would try, as suspension geometry should not change at all and those upper arm bolts are sure easy to access; Schatten, there is 'another way' as you thought, 'from the top', and realignment does not have to be done.

Trak Auto will lend me the compressor for $40 security deposit.

The Reverend

Prolene - there are three problems with compressing the spring on the car. First, if I remember correctly, there really isn't enough room. Second, even with the spring compressed, it will take a good amount of effort to compress the shock. It will want to sit fully extended unless you apply quite a bit of load to it. I weigh about 190 lbs and I remember having a hard time pushing it down more than a little bit, even with all my weight on it (this was with the spring already removed completely). Third (and most importantly), spring compressors are DANGEROUS - don't make it worse by rigging them up in an odd situation like that.

I thought about pulling the bolts that the A-arm mounts to the frame with when I did mine, but then I remembered a bad experience I once had when lowering my friend's RX-7... The RX-7 service manual called for doing it like that, but in working the shock out and trying to balance the suspension and everything... The weight of the suspension pulled on the wire for the ABS sensor and broke the connection (thereby disabling his ABS system). Fortunately my friend wasn't a big fan of ABS anyway, so he didn't really mind and forgave me... but I still feel like a dumbass for that mistake.

RT, where the hell did you get that tool?! That's EXACTLY like the tool Honda sells! My two arm gear puller does the job using the same principles as the Honda tool, but it's just not as pimp. How much did you pay for that?!

What The!?

I highly second that. It was a bitch to get even one side on. There simply is not enough room to fit a compressor in there. I've lowered many other Hondas and by far the S2000's springs are the most uncompressed springs of the bunch.
Have someone help you as you are doing this. As the last 17mm bolt is coming out, have someone grab the A-Arm. It will come out and down. You will be able to swing it towards the front and down just enough for the shock to come out. Like The Reverand said, be careful of the ABS and the brakeline. Taking apart the ball joint is a real fiasco. This method saves you some major time and headache.[/B][/QUOTE]