JackS

The point I was trying to make is that any major brand oil would be fine.
I bought a new Vette in 1980 and drove the car for 20yrs without regard to oil brand with no engine problems. It is curious to note that GM suggested that oil be changed every 4-5K(can't remember exactly) and that the filter be changed at every other oil change. I don't think anyone who had any regard for their car actually followed the filter rec. even 25years ago. This does not necessarily mean GM was wrong but to most people it seemed ridiculous not to install a $5 filter with every oil change.
If you grew up in a family that was used to maintaining all their own autos ,you are very likely to have some persuasion to use a certain brand. Nothing wrong with this either. It may be called early brainwashing but it's nothing more than the advertising done by all oil companies. See any commercial 50 times versus another at only 10 times, the majority of the population will accept that the highly commercialized product is better.
We may think that we are not prone to commercialization and that all our decisions are due to absolute independent thought. The Oil companies know better.
Bottom line- Use what you like. Change your mind and use something else or if you truly consider your self an independent thinker, use something different at every oil change. The end result will be the same.

TheOtherHalf

my buddy rebuilds race motors and he said he can tell who uses Mobil 1. Mobil 1 motors still look new. its all i use.

TheOtherHalf

"Bottom line- Use what you like. Change your mind and use something else or if you truly consider your self an independent thinker, use something different at every oil change. The end result will be the same."


?????

Thats not a risk i will take. i dont thing playing games with a $35k car that is in almost every case driven hard is a good idea. a good name oil will keep your car running, but a better oil will keep it running a little longer.

JackS

I stated earlier, my first oil change will be Mobil-1. This doesn't mean I haven't been brainwashed.
I wanted to go synthetic with this car anyway.


Edit- Perhaps to prove to myself that I still have a mind of my own, on the second change , I'll swith to another brand synthetic or perhaps not.

Swiftoy

How can you tell the difference between regular syntec and the german blend.

Swiftoy

s2kshift9k

there are only a few threads make things easier on everybody else

SpitfireS

90crvtec Posted on Dec 1 2006, 05:02 PM
UOA of the 0W-40 is in progress.
I'll post results as soon as I have them.
The 0W-30 went in 1000 km ago and will NOT be changed any time soon

It is not such a big jump.
At operating temp the oil will be a bit thinner and IMO the F20C/22C is designed with 30 weight in mind.
In case of the F20C2.. that engine was designed in 98/99 (IIRC) and oil development has not stopped since then.
It may run just as good with a modern xxW-20 oil, but I'm not trying it (or recommending it.. as if anyone listens to what I say anyway... ) without having proper data availabe on oil temp / pressure.

From what I've been reading on BITOG the German Castrol is a "thick 30 weight".
According to SAE J300 a 30 weight has to be between 9.6 and 12,5 cSt. at 100C.
Water is 1Cst, for comparison.
The 0W-30 Shell is rated at 9.6 cSt at 100C.
(if that shears down a bit during its life I'll end up with a thick 20 weight... )
You'll have to look at the individual oils to see what visc. they have.

A 0W-30 oil will make the most difference IMO, it will most likely be a proper syn oil and it will most likely always be thinner when cold when compared to a 5W-xx or 10W-xx oil.
With cold I mean anything below 40C.

90crvtec

Spitfire, my thoughts exactly on the 0w30 being a good synthetic. I'd just make an easy choice and go with the GC 0w30 however, with it being a thick 30wt I wanted to find something closer to the 10CSt range.

The Rotella T 5w40 I'm running now has a CST of 14.3 IIRC. I figured I'd notice the biggest difference in I went to an oil with 10CSt. For the record I realize that the only real difference in a 0wXX oil is its superior cold flow characteristics. However, I believe what you say about the F20C being designed with a 30wt in mind. Based on that, I would like to find an oil that comes closest to the 10CSt value as possible.

I'm going to do some research on USA Castrol Syntec 0w30 and see what I can come up with. I suppose there's always Mobil1 if I can't find anything else that I like.

slalom44

Here is a recent UOA from my '03 S2000 using Amsoil 0W-30, however I've got a beefed-up filtration system:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...0&Number=753919

90crvtec

Hey, thanks for sharing! I followed the link on BITOG showing your filtration system. That is one nice setup.