brimstone

RACER, you have seniority on me, I'm going to go ahead and not argue with you over a newbie's action.

But, apple, hear this: oil is not a topic with a cookie-cutter solution. Just like there are people who share RACER's awesome experience with Mobil 1, some people have complained that 10w-30 Mobil 1 has increased the oil consumption in their car. You will find similar two-sided stories about almost every single brand and weight oil there is out there. That's why I encourage so harshly for you to go ahead and take the time to read the enormous amount of information on the boards pertaining engine lubricants and make an informed decision that fits your specific needs (car, engine, oil consumption, weather/climate) and not someone elses.

There are situations in which fully synthetic oil is not recommended. For instance, during the manufacturing of the engine block, molybdenum (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum) is used and once the engine is filled up with oil and fired for the firs time, this metal will mix into the engine oil (thus you have the famous "break-in oil"). If you bother to read the wiki article, you'll see that molybdenum has properties such as "highest melting points of all pure elements" & "effective at hardening steel". This break-in oil (which is mineral-based) is best kept in for as long as you can stand it to let the molybdenum do its job. Once you flush it out you'll find a hard time finding any oils with the same amount of molybdenum in them (or quality? there are some moly additives but I've rarely seen them suggested). It's also been said that during this period synthetics are just plain too good of a lubricant to use in the engine, that using such "awesome" lubricants will prolong the break-in period of the engine; by molecular design alone synthetic oils are more prone to "molecular slippage", the molecules can more easily move about on top of one another and so forth. You want a slight bit of restriction for the break-in of the engine, for the honing to be done.

One other situation in which mineral is suggested is after an engine re-build, a second break-in period if you will.

I think I also read once that it was suggested if your engine is burning way too much oil--that it might actually decreased the amount burned by helping to re-seal piston rings; but I never believed this last one, take it with a grain of salt.

Look, I didn't know what the "w" in 10w-30 was before I got onto these forums 3,5 months ago... but I read every single thing on here. Also, do a search for "Bob is the oil guy" -- thats a giant forum based soley on (automotive) lubricants and the likes. Its much more technical and not just based on the S2K, but its the only step-up after you've been bit by the lubricant bug.

Good Luck.

RACER

Good info

90crvtec

Just to add a quick tidbit of information to what brimstone posted (good info by the way).

I don't get why a lot of people on here on Mobil1 die hards. Does anyone have some superior UOAs with Mobil that they'd care to post? I have seen nothing, zero, zilch evidence that shows me that Mobil1 synthetic, in ANY formulation (extended performance, SuperSyn, etc.), is any better than the competition's oil.

Finally, the guys on here saying "Mobil1 Fully Synthetic is the only way to go" should actually read bob is the oil guy. There's a big discussion over there about Mobil's recent use of Group III base stocks. That's a mineral oil base for those who don't know. So your Mobil1 "full synthetic" is no more so than the Pennzoil Platinum sitting right next to it for half the price.

"Fully Synthetic" used to mean an oil was formulated primarily with Group IV/V base stocks, those are Esters and PAOs. These are truly man made synthetic base stocks and they are what gives synthetic oils superior flow characteristics when cold and excellent sheer resistance when stressed. Group III oils are naturally occuring and pulled from the earth, but Group III is highly refined and shot full of additives to the point of being able to perform very close to a Group IV/V based product.
Mobil lost the lawsuit with Castrol concerning labeling a Group III product as a "fully synthetic" oil. As a result, companies like Castrol, Pennzoil, Quakerstate, Rotella, and others have started using Group III synthetics. It appears as though Mobil took the 'if you can't beat em', join em' approach and has also started formulating at least some of their "fully synthetic" products with Group III dino basestocks.

If you want my honest opinion, virtually ANY prominant brand name synthetic that you buy, provided it is within the correct weight specified in your owners manual, will work just fine for the S2000. Choosing an oil is 99% opinion, the last 1% is simple guidance set in place by your owners manual (so you don't go filling up with 20w50).

JackS

I don't know a thing about lubricants but as far as I know Mobil-1 is the stock fill for all newer Corvettes. If GM has determined this oil is good enough for their Vette's, it should be good enough for our S2Ks.
The notion that other major brand oils are as good as Mobil-1 is probably right though.
Use an oil that your comfortable with. Were not only treating our cars, were also treating our noggins(heads).

shotiable

i use castrol gtx full synthetic. i read on here that castrol or mobile 1 is recommended.
brimstone, give the guy a break... its not like he/she has been on here long, we were all noobs at one point, c'mon now...
o yea... 10w-30 is what i use

Swiftoy

There are even some conventional oils nowadays that perform nearly as well as synthetics with the exception of drain intervals. Do a search on this forum and on Bob is the oil guy for Havoline GF-4 motor oil. This oil has had some excellent UOA'S and best of all you can buy a 5 quart jug for about 10 bucks a walmart.

Aren't the AP1's more prone to oil consumption? Maybe synthetic wouldn't be a wise choice given your mileage. Hard to tell.

Swiftoy

SpitfireS

There is a lot to read on BITOG, that is for sure.
Something like this for example:
MOTOR OIL by AE Haas
Take your time to read it, then read it again to get familiar with it, read it a third time to fully understand it.

Your next oil will be a full syn 0W-30.
No doubt.

90crvtec

Do you run German Castrol?

brimstone

Thank you.
Thank you.
Thank you.

TR-S2K

I like M1 0W-30 and Castrol Syntex 0W-30 (made in Germany (German Castrol as called by BITOG)), but either one is hard to find at local stores.