Slowcrash_101

I'd say anything over 75c would probably be excessive for the wheel if you're driving semi-normal to somewhat spirited.

simons

75 celcius at the wheel. What do you refer exactly to at the wheel? The wheel center? A lugnut? The brake disc itself?

noodels

75 at the disc,i would say its not working very well ,use your common !!

simons

What are you trying to say? 75 Celcius at the disc after a ride is high or low? Whats your point??

Btw, very mature to make fun of someone who asks a question to learn. You must feel very happy now.

I don't think most people have any idea how hot a brake disc could be after a spirited drive. I don't. You seem to be the expert on this field so you tell us about it.

Slowcrash_101

The wheel ie the spokes of the rim, also referred to as the disk when you're shopping for car parts. Brake discs are usually called rotors.

simons

Thank for clarifying! I guess its American english. "A disc brake is a type of brake that uses calipers to squeeze pairs of pads against a disc or "rotor"" from Wikipedia.

So you were saying 75C at the spokes. That was too much. The spokes on my right wheel get really warm, I would say the center where the lugnuts are hot. But I woudlnt burn my skin on it.

But more practically speaking. How can I measure 75c without a heatgun? Thats why I asked about the "rotor" temp. Because it will be hotter and I can test with waterdrops. Would 100 celcius be too hot right after driving or is that still within Limits for the rotor. That way i could test more easily. Thanks!

ps. When it was 30C sunny weather the wheel got way hotter than now when it averages 20C outdoor.

noodels

Sorry dude was a bit out of order

SpitfireS

What you could try is turn it IN until it stops, then mount the caliper and replace the pads (old thin ones if you have them) and press the brake to move the piston out.
That way you will get some piston movement. Repeat a couple of times.
But... once the chrome coating on the piston is done the piston WILL seize again as rust never stops.
Plus there is rust/dirt in the dust seal helping to hold water = more rust.

Even replacing the pistons/seals will not really work long term as the caliper is rusted.
Scraping (Dremel wire brush) as much rust as you can off the caliper dust seal seat is maybe enough for 1-2 winters.
What I did last time is completely remove the caliper and all internals, tape the bore and all holes and sandblast the groove in the caliper where the dust seal sits.
Then coat it with ceramic grease (white stuff, very fine, waterproof) and reinstall everything.
Lots of work and you need access to a sandblaster with no too agressive grid.