Question about Rear brake piston/cylinder
#1
Question about Rear brake piston/cylinder
My rightside rear brake runs hotter than left (after a spirited drive with some hard braking, so its not jammed but not moving back properly. Its been like this since I noticed about a week or so). I have replaced the left in the past for same reason. MY00 ap1. I have cleaned and regreased the slider pins, it made no difference. I installed new pads, and leftside piston turned in easier. I noticed the warm brake recently but I dont remember how or when exactly. I think just before the pad replacement. Pads cant be the problem, because left side is fine. Left wheel is just a little warmer than the fronts, but I read it is normal becsuse the fronts are vented discs and rears are solid.
Now I want to try if I can fix it instead of replacing the caliper. What I have done is turning it out and in a few times. About half an inch out or so. Because im afraid I go to far. I dont have a clue how far it will go without a problem. It does turn super heavy. The other side (L) turns a bit easier, which I think is a sign.
I have put lots of silicone grease on the piston under the seal, on the part I took out hoping it will grease the sliding action of the piston. I could turn it easier afterwards, but after installign and pressing the brake, it got tight again, and on a testride the temps got back up like before.
I want to know:
1. How far can I turn out the piston before I get in trouble? So I can inspect the piston surface and put more grease down below on the piston.
2. Is there a point when the piston pops out if you keep on turning? In pics it seems quit long actually.
3. Does the piston contain brake fluid on the inside? Or is it dry? So if it comes out will all the brake fluid gush out?
Who can give me some answers? Perhaps someone has tried this or did a rebuild. Please share what you know, all tips welome of what to do, before replacing the caliper.
thanks!
Now I want to try if I can fix it instead of replacing the caliper. What I have done is turning it out and in a few times. About half an inch out or so. Because im afraid I go to far. I dont have a clue how far it will go without a problem. It does turn super heavy. The other side (L) turns a bit easier, which I think is a sign.
I have put lots of silicone grease on the piston under the seal, on the part I took out hoping it will grease the sliding action of the piston. I could turn it easier afterwards, but after installign and pressing the brake, it got tight again, and on a testride the temps got back up like before.
I want to know:
1. How far can I turn out the piston before I get in trouble? So I can inspect the piston surface and put more grease down below on the piston.
2. Is there a point when the piston pops out if you keep on turning? In pics it seems quit long actually.
3. Does the piston contain brake fluid on the inside? Or is it dry? So if it comes out will all the brake fluid gush out?
Who can give me some answers? Perhaps someone has tried this or did a rebuild. Please share what you know, all tips welome of what to do, before replacing the caliper.
thanks!
#3
It happened while the brake was attached to the car? So it means you can take out the piston without a leaking brake? Did you also take it out because it was stuck? Did it help?
#4
Caliper rebuild here on another forum its on a civic but same as s2000,hope you can see it.
https://civic5.com/forum/topic/3647-...-prep/?page=30
https://civic5.com/forum/topic/3647-...-prep/?page=30
#5
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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Don't grease the piston where it contacts the fluid.
If its seized...buy a caliper or rebuild yours.
If its seized...buy a caliper or rebuild yours.
#6
I removed the piston with the caliper removed from the car, but the piston can also be removed with the caliper still attached. You will leak brake fluid though, its what's behind the piston. I removed it for inspection and just out of curiosity.
#7
To a certain extent the passenger rear wheel always runs hotter than the driver side rear. Being furthest from the master the fluid also has the longest return path. So hot fluid tends to linger on that wheel the most.
If the difference is excessive a bad wheel bearing can also heat the wheel. I had the same issue I even replaced the calipers, ended up being wheel bearings. Not saying this is your issue, just throwing out another possibility.
If the difference is excessive a bad wheel bearing can also heat the wheel. I had the same issue I even replaced the calipers, ended up being wheel bearings. Not saying this is your issue, just throwing out another possibility.
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#8
To a certain extent the passenger rear wheel always runs hotter than the driver side rear. Being furthest from the master the fluid also has the longest return path. So hot fluid tends to linger on that wheel the most.
If the difference is excessive a bad wheel bearing can also heat the wheel. I had the same issue I even replaced the calipers, ended up being wheel bearings. Not saying this is your issue, just throwing out another possibility.
If the difference is excessive a bad wheel bearing can also heat the wheel. I had the same issue I even replaced the calipers, ended up being wheel bearings. Not saying this is your issue, just throwing out another possibility.
What I notice is the harder I brake during driving, the hotter the wheel gets. (and the left rear gets warmer as well, but not what I would call "hot").
If I would spit on the rear brake disc and it would boil off (havent tried but cant think of another method, dont have a special temp gun), would that boiling be from excessive heat? Or what would that normal after a hard run?
PS. I dont hear any noise from that wheel (bad bearing gives noise?)