Random1

Yes, you have to pull up the center console, disconnect wire connectors, remove boot, etc.

Saki GT

There is a TSB on 2002s I believe that tells you how to take out the shifter - its either linked on the first page or in the Library.

SpitfireS

If fresh grease doesn't work for you, it might be the clutch not fully disengaging because:
#1 - Too much free play in pedal linkage.
#2 - There IS trapped air in the master and/or slave, maybe just dirty old fluid.
#3 - The clutch disk doesn't slide over the splines as it used to.

#3 is hard to fix.

Saki GT

Flushed the fluid earlier this year, and bled the system twice to be sure.

New grease on all parts definitely helps. I put the original shift knob on again and went for a drive - definitely better feeling. Now I just need to get into another S and see if its up to par for what others feel like.

modMonkey

Did you end up using Shin-Etsu or Urea grease? I'm a little confused at the implications of your earlier conversations with spitfireS

Saki GT

You use both. Urea grease is high temp, metal on metal/plastic, used in the shifter linkage. Shin Etsu is light grease, used on the rubber to keep squeaks from happening where it meets metal.

Saki GT

First, use the TSB for the 2002 (?) 5th gear lockout for detailed instructions on the process.

Here's pics to go with it.

Step one - remove the shift knob and center console. If the shift knob is OEM, it has a counter-nut you need to loosen before you can take the knob off, otherwise just unscrew it and remove. On an AP2 there are four clips you need to pop by pulling up on the sides of the console. Two in front of the shifter, and two behind the cubby:



Pull from the side to pop them.



Pull the console up and over the emergency brake - the higher you can get the brake, the easier this is. You can disconnect the wiring harness to completely remove the center console, or just lay it over on the driver's seat so its out of the way.

Next look down in the shifter compartment and pull out the foam insulation.



Now for the second hardest part of this process - getting the rubber shifter boot off. Its held on with a plastic ring with four clips at each corner - there are little arrows on the ring that show you where they are. You need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry them off from inside the ring. Major PITA and I still managed to break two of the clips getting it off for some reason.



Once you snap the ring loose at all four corners, just lift it out, and then pull the rubber boot up and off the shifter.



Now you'll see where the shifter is bolted to the car, under the rubber protective cover. Use needle nose pliers to grab the tab toward the front of the car and pop it off.



Now you can access the three 10mm bolts and loosen them. Note that the shifter is spring loaded, so it will pop a bit when you get the last one off.



Pull the shifter out, be mindful of the spring - it may stay in the hole, or come with the shifter, but its covered in grease, so don't let it drop in the car!

Take a peak down the shifter - don't drop anything in there! Clean up the old grease with a rag, and do the same with the shifter and spring.



Quickly cleaned up. You can be more thorough with solvent, but I just wanted to get fresh grease in so I just got what I could with a rag.



Grab the Urea grease and start greasing - get as much as you can in the shifter assembly, under the bolt plate, and in the pivot cap.



Now that everything is greased, the hardest part of the project - getting the spring-loaded shifter back in. You have to get the shifter ball back into the linkage as you install or you won't be able to shift gears. The shifter only goes in one way, so that part at least is simple.

Push the shifter down once its aligned (don't forget the spring) and realign the bolt plate that holds the shifter in. Note that it is convex in front, concave for each side as it goes to the rear bolt. I found it easiest to install the front left bolt first - you need one hand to hold the shifter in and down, the other to hold the rubber cover out of the way and insert the bolt, all while trying not to get grease on your hands.



Once you get one bolt in to keep the shifter from springing up, insert the other two and keep realigning the bolt plate. Once all three are in, tighten down. Test the shifter and make sure you can get into gears! If all is good reapply the rubber seal over the three bolts.



Now reinstall the rubber boot. This is where you apply Shin Etsu to the shifter column - below the lip where the rubber will rest - this is to keep it from squeaking. Reinstall the plastic ring on the rubber boot, apply the grease to the shifter, then slide the boot down over the shifter and snap the plastic ring back in.

Replace the foam, replace the center console, and replace the shift knob. Done.

billiardboy904

Thanks Saki,

I've been following this thread now and I felt the same as you did. when I purchased the car, I couldnt get over the fact that it shifted so damn smooth and It gave me a feeling that I could not explain. Just made the Drive that much better. Over the years, I have noticed that it is relatively harder to put the shifter into gear, like you said. Easy for me, My bro bought an S2000 as well and it has half the mileage I do so If I go from one to the other, it is night and day. I do know that my clutch is going because even when I push int he clutch while rolling to a stop, the pressure plate doesnt fully disengage. (Everything is getting replaced soon with OEM all and ACT PP)
I will eb trying this Shifter TSB as well with the help of your pics posted and will chime in later. BTW, I too had the "Hard to get into Reverse" issue. I hope this solves it. Anyone else having this problem and has tried this TSB please post.

Saki GT, did you order your Urea Grease from Honda?

Saki GT

Yes, my local dealer had the cheapest price for urea grease, but the parts department had no idea what i was talking about - having the part number is important.

billiardboy904

Grease has been ordered. patiently waiting