apex2k

I will be inspecting the retainers for damage this weekend and would like to know if there are any "tricks" to removing the valve cover. It reads pretty simple in the manual but would like a little real-world feedback. Any fragile parts or things to look out for that the book does not mention? I am new to this, but I can turn a wrench and read directions, so I want to give it a try. According to Helms:

- remove dipstick, pcv hose, breather hose
- remove ignition coil cover then coils
- remove cylinder head cover

I assume the head cover gasket does not have to be replaced if it is in good shape, just wiped down, inspected and reinstalled, correct? Assembly is the reverse. I did find this final comment interesting (and irrelevant in my case): "After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil". What is up with that? Thanks, jeff.

CoralDoc

It is relatively simple. The cover can get hung up on some components to the rear, so I just removed them. I don't remember the exact part, but it was on a plastic clip that attached to a metal bracket.

I don't know why you're supposed to wait 30 minutes before filling with oil - does anyone else have a clue?

Gernby

You won't be able to make a very relevant inspection of the retainers just by removing the valve cover. They are pretty well covered up by the cams.

The only reason I can see for waiting 30 minutes is to allow the gasket to settle in to place (make a good seal).

xviper

I'm not sure why you would lose enough oil to make "filling" a necessity if you're only removing the valve cover.

Ludedude

Might that be relevant if you replaced the gasket? Otherwise I can see no reason to wait if you just unbolted the valve cover and then put it back on with the same gasket.

SanMarinoCpe

What you are refering to is the cylinder head cover install when installing the cylinder head. The foot note to this is refering to changing the oil also. This wording is not in the service manual when just installing the cylinder head cover alone.

mikegarrison

I couldn't get the breather hose off the cover. In fact, I ended up unhooking the hose from the other side.

There are a lot of wires to shift out of the way. You can get more play on the ignition wires if you disconnect them at the front of the engine. Only the connectors, though. It is not necessary to unbolt the one that appears to be a ground wire.

In the back, there are two TDC sensors. They have to be disconnected, and it may be easier if they are removed.

There is also a wire bundle running along the firewall. Unclip it from it's bracket and remove the bolt securing the bracket. You have to shift that wire bundle and the bracket out of the way.

ps. I didn't add any oil at all afterwards. So I guess I've waited much longer than 30 minutes. Also, I didn't find a torque spec for the TDC sensors, but it's probably the same 7.2 ft-lb as everything else that screws into the aluminum cover.

mikegarrison

Also, the trickiest parts for me were getting the spark plug seals to seat right and popping the TDC sensor back in (had to carefully use a hammer for that one).

When I pulled the cover off, those five rubber gaskets with the shiny metal tops seemed attached to the cover, so I left them on. But when I put the cover back on, they all got popped off the cover and I almost lost one. So take them off the cover before attempting to reinstall it.

Gernby

If you just bump the valve cover lightly after removing the 5 bolts, the rubber / metal washers will loosen enough to remove them before pulling the valve cover off. I do this so that I don't lose them during the removal.

I haven't ever removed the TDC sensors or the bracket that holds the wires to the firewall.

apex2k

Thank-you to all, I appreciate the input.