Probable Clutch Slipping?
#11
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1354067112' post='22175765
[quote name='Jag528' timestamp='1353995863' post='22173711']
Thanks for the reply. Would changing the fluid help prevent the clutch from slipping? If so I'll give it a shot. I'll check the pedal also. I adjusted it up not too long ago using the DIY on this forum to help cure my 2nd gear grind (it did). Not sure if this would affect clutch slippage.
Thanks for the reply. Would changing the fluid help prevent the clutch from slipping? If so I'll give it a shot. I'll check the pedal also. I adjusted it up not too long ago using the DIY on this forum to help cure my 2nd gear grind (it did). Not sure if this would affect clutch slippage.
[/quote]
^check this asap it may solve your issue. About one month after I isntalled a new clutch it began to slip, turned out to be lack of clearance in the clutch rod putting pressure on the mc. As soon as I shortened the rod and introduced some clearance the slipping immediately stopped and has never returned.
#12
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I currently have mine set to zero freeplay as per the 2nd gear grind fix thread. I went with Billman's advice:
I don't want to set the clutch rod back down just to mask the problem (and reintroduce the 2nd gear grind). I will also change the clutch fluid ASAP. And I will also try the DIY HarryD suggested.
There is only one correct setting for the clutch rod....zero, or barely noticeable freeplay.
When I say this, I mean play between the end of the rod, and the master cyl piston...you should barely see play in the rod when using light pinky pressure to move the clutch pedal in and out.
Adjusting it in any other way is only masking another problem.
Shortening the rod will decrease the amount of disengagement, and most likely cause disc drag and second gear grinding.
**this may be difficult for some to grasp. When pressing on the clutch with your finger, you will usually feel two different "freeplays". The first is pushrod play, in which 99% should be removed by loosening the 12mm nut, and turning the rod with you fingers to remove the play.
The second is the built in play in the master, which is normal.
When I say this, I mean play between the end of the rod, and the master cyl piston...you should barely see play in the rod when using light pinky pressure to move the clutch pedal in and out.
Adjusting it in any other way is only masking another problem.
Shortening the rod will decrease the amount of disengagement, and most likely cause disc drag and second gear grinding.
**this may be difficult for some to grasp. When pressing on the clutch with your finger, you will usually feel two different "freeplays". The first is pushrod play, in which 99% should be removed by loosening the 12mm nut, and turning the rod with you fingers to remove the play.
The second is the built in play in the master, which is normal.
#13
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It would not be "masking" the problem, it would be fixing it. 2nd gear grind could be just how you are shifting or bad syncro. It has nothing to do with your clutch slipping. If there is no free play then the clutch is not fully engaging, once warm it will begin to slip.
If in fact adjusting your clutch pedal removed a 2nd gear grind then it proves that it was your driving/shifting that was the cause of the problem to begin with. All it does is change the engagement point of the clutch relative to how far you have to press the pedal. Its not like it magically fixed a mechanical problem in your transmission.
Adjust the pedal, report back.
If in fact adjusting your clutch pedal removed a 2nd gear grind then it proves that it was your driving/shifting that was the cause of the problem to begin with. All it does is change the engagement point of the clutch relative to how far you have to press the pedal. Its not like it magically fixed a mechanical problem in your transmission.
Adjust the pedal, report back.
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donkeykong
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