Price on rear gear sets reduced by $135
08-04-2003, 09:19 PM
#21
Registered User
Can you guys give me a summery of the break in procedure. I am having these installed in Ohio and I live in VA? I thought I would use the drive home as part of the break in....
08-05-2003, 07:51 AM
#22
Break in procedure for these and any new gear set should be no different than when you buy a new car and go through the break in for it.
HOWEVER, that having been said:
This is NOT a stock gear set, installed at some factory. This is a custom job that may or may not be perfectly on spec, so some caution should be taken to ensure the gears will get "run in" safely. Any slightly out of spec installation can be devestating BUT if the owner takes a little care to break them in, it'll give them a chance to "wear" in and function well. Remember, there are high and low limits to the gear calibration. If yours is at one extreme or slightly beyond, you need to take care of them during the initial stage of duty. Surprisingly, your differential gets very hot during normal use. It can get alarmingly hot if they are not in spec. So, this is a "casual" way you can check its health during the break in. Feel it after a routine drive. It should be hot to touch but not uncomfortably so to hold your hand on the casing for several seconds.
I suggest the following:
Drive the car easy for the first 100 miles or so, doing your usual turns, etc. (Straight line highway won't hurt but won't wear the teeth in well either.) Then begin to drive more aggressively but still not "full load" till about 500-700 miles. then gradually add more load over the next several hundred miles. Once you have reached between 1000 and 1500 miles, change the fluid. Now's your chance to "read" the fluid. Look at its condition. See if there are any large metal shaving stuck to the magnet. When you look at the fluid in your drain pain in the sun, is it filled with a high concentration of specs (like gold dust)? This would NOT be good if there is too much. It should be filthy but it should not look like or pour like mud.
Then, I would change it annually or every 2-3 years depending on your type and frequency of use.
ps. I'm one of those who think Honda made a big mistake to NOT have in the maintainance schedule, an early diff fluid change. As most guys who have done this change will tell you, that first change in a gearset's life shows the most gawd awful looking fluid. All subsequent changes, regardless of length of time past, is not nearly so bad looking. That should tell us something.
HOWEVER, that having been said:
This is NOT a stock gear set, installed at some factory. This is a custom job that may or may not be perfectly on spec, so some caution should be taken to ensure the gears will get "run in" safely. Any slightly out of spec installation can be devestating BUT if the owner takes a little care to break them in, it'll give them a chance to "wear" in and function well. Remember, there are high and low limits to the gear calibration. If yours is at one extreme or slightly beyond, you need to take care of them during the initial stage of duty. Surprisingly, your differential gets very hot during normal use. It can get alarmingly hot if they are not in spec. So, this is a "casual" way you can check its health during the break in. Feel it after a routine drive. It should be hot to touch but not uncomfortably so to hold your hand on the casing for several seconds.
I suggest the following:
Drive the car easy for the first 100 miles or so, doing your usual turns, etc. (Straight line highway won't hurt but won't wear the teeth in well either.) Then begin to drive more aggressively but still not "full load" till about 500-700 miles. then gradually add more load over the next several hundred miles. Once you have reached between 1000 and 1500 miles, change the fluid. Now's your chance to "read" the fluid. Look at its condition. See if there are any large metal shaving stuck to the magnet. When you look at the fluid in your drain pain in the sun, is it filled with a high concentration of specs (like gold dust)? This would NOT be good if there is too much. It should be filthy but it should not look like or pour like mud.
Then, I would change it annually or every 2-3 years depending on your type and frequency of use.
ps. I'm one of those who think Honda made a big mistake to NOT have in the maintainance schedule, an early diff fluid change. As most guys who have done this change will tell you, that first change in a gearset's life shows the most gawd awful looking fluid. All subsequent changes, regardless of length of time past, is not nearly so bad looking. That should tell us something.
08-05-2003, 08:03 AM
#23
Registered User
Thanks dave. Since I have to drive it back from Ohio, I was planing on treating it like the break in period i.e. not over 5K ( I was going to granny it and stay around 3-4K if possible) for the next 1500 miles.
Once again, the Guru comes through.
Once again, the Guru comes through.
08-05-2003, 08:51 AM
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Jacksonville
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Rick/Stratocaster, I am in the same boat as Gernby and MyBad. I would love to do this mod but hesitant since you are at the hands of the installer. I live right up the road from MyBad so that's two sets if we could find a reputable mechanic within a reasonable drive. There ought to be a way to get some "recommended" installers listed. If anyone knows of one in the Wilmington, NC area chime in.
08-05-2003, 12:24 PM
#25
Registered User
If you go to the D.C area, Curry's is supposed to be excellent. You guys could make a weekend trip of it. I wouldn't complain too much...I am driving to Ohio to have them installed at a reputable place.
08-09-2003, 12:39 PM
#27
Originally posted by David b
Is there a speedometer corrector available when you change the rear gears?
Is there a speedometer corrector available when you change the rear gears?
08-09-2003, 04:46 PM
#28
Just wondering if my dealer can install the gears and if warranty will stay or if they even have the experience? I have just ordered the 4.44 gears/installation kit/speedo-tach resink, etc. but not sure on who to trust to put them in. Or does anyone know a good mechanic around the Detroit area if the dealer isn't worthy of going to?
08-09-2003, 08:10 PM
#30
Originally posted by David b
This is the first I have heard of a Yellow Box, now I am edumacated!!!
This is the first I have heard of a Yellow Box, now I am edumacated!!!
http://www.blackrobotics.com/
It basically "electronically" intercepts the speed sensor signal and re-proportions it before the ECU gets it.
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