Pressing out the wheel bearing
03-14-2016, 10:19 PM
#1
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Pressing out the wheel bearing
Hi Guys,
I am in the process of pressing out the wheel bearing from my rear knuckle using a 12ton hydraulic, but I can't seem to get it to budge. (Yes, I have removed the c-ring.) I am putting a lot of force on the press lever and just short of throwing my whole body weight on the tiny lever stick. Is this normal? Or is 12ton insufficient to get the bearing out of the knuckle. Please give me some feedback on what needs to be done. Thanks in advance!
I am in the process of pressing out the wheel bearing from my rear knuckle using a 12ton hydraulic, but I can't seem to get it to budge. (Yes, I have removed the c-ring.) I am putting a lot of force on the press lever and just short of throwing my whole body weight on the tiny lever stick. Is this normal? Or is 12ton insufficient to get the bearing out of the knuckle. Please give me some feedback on what needs to be done. Thanks in advance!
03-15-2016, 03:40 AM
#3
Moderator
Even with my 20ton, the initial breakaway of the bearing is pretty violent.
Crank that lever, and be ready for the big bang.
When pressing the hub back into the bearing, do NOT support the knuckle. Support the inner bearing race. (No part of the knuckle should be touching anything)
Crank that lever, and be ready for the big bang.
When pressing the hub back into the bearing, do NOT support the knuckle. Support the inner bearing race. (No part of the knuckle should be touching anything)
03-15-2016, 04:51 AM
#4
I've got the same press and it worked fine for me. You might have air in the system that needs to be bled if this is the first time using it. Mine had that issue when I first got it and I simply bled the air out and it worked fine after that.
03-15-2016, 07:33 AM
#5
Even with my 20ton, the initial breakaway of the bearing is pretty violent.
Crank that lever, and be ready for the big bang.
When pressing the hub back into the bearing, do NOT support the knuckle. Support the inner bearing race. (No part of the knuckle should be touching anything)
Crank that lever, and be ready for the big bang.
When pressing the hub back into the bearing, do NOT support the knuckle. Support the inner bearing race. (No part of the knuckle should be touching anything)
For clarification, the knuckle carries the hub/bearing assembly. Is the idea to press the bearing into the knuckle first, THEN press the hub in?
thanks- i'm just trying to visualize the process.
darcy
03-15-2016, 12:35 PM
#7
Yes, bearing first then hub, and like Billman said, support that inner race, it'll keep from warping the knuckle, and will keep the inner race from shifting, as it's very easy to remove.
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03-15-2016, 03:04 PM
#8
Moderator
-press bearing into knuckle via OUTER race/shell, supporting knuckle service surface (smooth round section)
-insert snap ring
-press hub into bearing, supporting inner race stack from bottom
End result is 0 press load on ball bearings and knuckle.
Improper support will put the press load directly on the ball bearings, spotting them, severely reducing life.
Expect well over 100,000 miles on properly pressed oem bearings and axle nut torque. I am at 140k on 4 original wheel bearings. If you are tracking on slicks, I recommend the "axle nut tsb" on the front of the car as well (retorquing of stub shaft nut, procedure is same as rear)
-insert snap ring
-press hub into bearing, supporting inner race stack from bottom
End result is 0 press load on ball bearings and knuckle.
Improper support will put the press load directly on the ball bearings, spotting them, severely reducing life.
Expect well over 100,000 miles on properly pressed oem bearings and axle nut torque. I am at 140k on 4 original wheel bearings. If you are tracking on slicks, I recommend the "axle nut tsb" on the front of the car as well (retorquing of stub shaft nut, procedure is same as rear)
