nearwater4me

Yeah, looks like the ABS sensor wires were damaged.
Don't get too intimidated though.
Everyone makes mistakes.
What's important is learning from those mistakes.
Good luck!

Dan

nearwater4me

I've read two threads about the preloading in the sticky thread, and one states that the front upper A-arm should be torqued to 75.9ft-lb, but the other thread stated 97ft-lb for the rear a-arm.
I guess it's different.
The reason I wanted to re-torque the rear upper A-arm was because of the changed ride height.
Stock settings should be set to stock ride height, not lowered ride height.
So I figured it might be a good idea to loosen the bolts and retorque to the lowered ride height.

Anyway, I retorqued everything last night and looks good so far.

Dan

mindphunk

Ok, so hopefully all I've done is pulled the wire somewhere. I'll have someone look at it on Monday. Thanks for your help.

nearwater4me

Not a problem. Glad we could help
Try to follow the ABS wires and see where it's disconnected before going to the shop though.
You might be able to solder it back on if it's not cut from the connector side.

Dan

SDSILVERM3

After doing the install on my car yesterday I can definitely see how it could happen. You don't get much slack with that wire especially with the a-arm unbolted and would need someone to hold the rotor and caliper if you were to step away otherwise stretching is likely.

Hope you get this resolved.

mindphunk

I took it to a performance shop today and had them order the part. $100 installed. Car looks great though and they checked my install and said that everything was fine.

Picturepro

Bump...

sorry to bump a old thread but I questioning the Tq specs

I've read both control arm Tq specs
79 and 97 were there some dyslexic post??

I replaced my 2005 with 79000 miles one leaking for 2008 with only 400 miles. Shock and springs complete O.E. I had a knock over speed bumps so I pulled it apart put some grease on the contact points at the control arm, body and a little on the bolt shaft due to some corrosion and rust

Hope 97lb is ok

re-torqued the shock mount on lower control arm to 47lbs as listed in a couple post

Can someone please confirm the correct specs PLZ

CKit

Rear Lower arm to body, the long single bolt without a nut: 90.4 ft*lbs
Rear Upper arm (each of the two long bolts): 97.6 ft*lbs

That's what my shop manual says, anyway.

Picturepro

Front: Driver and passenger at 97lbs, two long bolts each side.
Shock mount on lower control arm 47lbs

cool Thank you

This would be useful information to ADD to the post on Tq. specs

Slowcrash_101

Sorry to revive this thread, but if you install a new shock/spring combo, do you have to loosen all the suspension bolts that have bushings(ie the bolts holding the upper and lower control arms), jack up the suspension then re-torque them after jacking up the suspension or only the ones you loosened to install the shock/spring?

I recently installed new shocks/springs, unbolted the upper A arm bolts(on the fronts, didn't touch the rears), then hand threaded the UCA bolts in, then jacked up the control arm until it lifted off the jack stand, then I tightened the shock assembly and control arm bolts. I'll be doing an alignment soon, but I'm worried if I did it wrong as I have a three finger gap in the front. I also didn't lift at the brake rotor but on the actual control arm itself(just inboard of the ball joint castle nut). I haven't gotten the car aligned yet as I'm letting her rest a few days to let the suspension settle, the car handles fine from what I can tell. Again, I'm worried I did it wrong and that I am going to chew up my control arm bushings. I'm also going from lowered, to OEM height as I don't really care about having a lowered car anymore.