windhund116

"IF I have overtightened it which I suspect I did, will turning it back 1 turn resolve it or did I damage the gasket and need a new filter instead?"

This is a no-no. If you need to re-torque the filter (or anything tightened) --- best to fully loosen the object and re-torque to proper specs. Believe me, you need a filter wrench to over-tighten an OEM oil filter. Or Gorilla strength hands.

Thomas Guide

Good point on loosening then retorquing, I do have the filter cap tool and also recall threads here on the physics of the torquing as you stated.

I guess since I'm going to loosen it I might as well take it off and see what the gasket looks like (if there's grit etc).

In yours (or anyones) experience, do the gaskets get damaged easily from over tightening by 1 or 2 numbers?

Also, why are the torque specs so off, they are like 2-3 numbers less then the other method when comparing (at least for me, using a new calibrated CDI torque wrench).

windhund116

I haven't had issues with new oil filter and their rubber seal --- in terms of overtightening. Now, if you were to leave an overtightened filter on the car for 6 months --- you may have a difficult time removing it.

The only O-ring that I've replaced, when miss-tightened are crushable metal O-rings. If you can't evenly sand off the crush scars, that plug may leak.

Mr.Matchbox

Example:

The OEM Oil filters at the old Suzuki GSXR 1100 asked for 2 Turns after the seal has contact. Printed on the oil filter and mentioned in the workshop manual. Differnce, this suzuki filters had a real round O-ring gasket, not a square profile one like car oil filters. If done this way, you feel that the filter seal compressed while thigtening, and finally, after 2 turns, you feel Metall-to- Metall contact, block to filter.
Filter never came loose, wich is vital on a motorcycle, but was allways a litte bit difficult to remove, you had no chance without a filter wrench.

A oil filter, in my opinion, is the only thing on a engine where "a little bit more thight.." is better and safe.

Buy the oil filter wrench, use a genuine Honda Oil filter, and thigten it according to the manual and you are safe.
Better this than loosing an engine.

Chuck S

The S2000 oil filter should be tightened 7/8 turn after gasket contact or 16 lb-ft (22 NM) using a torque wrench. There are eight (8) numerals on the filter body perimeter to make this simple if you don't have a torque wrench.

You can buy the genuine Honda special oil filter wrench for some exhortation price or the CTA (brand) A257 filter wrench at the auto parts store for 5 bucks. Has a 3/8" socket on top for your torque wrench.

The oil filter is accessible from the top of the engine if you have an aftermarket "cold air intake" such as my K&N FIPK. Sucking the oil out of the engine with the same pump I use for inboard boat engines and changing the filter from above means no need for me to get under the car or worrying about drain plugs and washers (as simple as that task is it can get messy for me). A quick change petcock on the oil pan is another solution but ya gotta position the catch pan in the right spot and I miss it routinely.

-- Chuck

cosmomiller

To be clear in this thread, I think it is worth pointing out that the OEM filter is constructed differently than the other auto filters (that "fit" the S2000) out there especially with the 3/4 hand tighten instructions. It is not enough to increase the torque by going from 3/4 to 7/8ths.
The OEM filter has two metal rings sandwiching the rubber gasket. The two rings make contact with the engine mating surface (thats why you need to torque with a wrench and not by hand) and the gasket makes the seal. The metal contact prevents the filter from backing off.

ALL other filters have one ring and the rubber gasket. The installation of those filters is less secure than the OEM filter installed correctly.

Chuck S

Good point. Best practice is to only use the correct Honda filter. With the hundreds of messages stressing this over the years I made the assumption the OP was using the correct filter, not something from Walmart.

The local Honda dealer had it (and the washer for the oil drain plug) in stock. No confusion at this dealer. Oil filter change procedure on any machine (including my lawn mower) includes checking the mating surface on the engine for foreign matter (and any old gaskets stuck there) which will cause leaks.



-- Chuck

Thomas Guide

Hey guys, not to be that guy, but I resurrected a 5 year old thread to ask questions about over-tightening an OEM filter and used this thread as reference point. I think the last few posts are still discussing the original OPs post and not my recent post asking for some guidance so it's starting to get off topic as what's related to the necro-post resurrection.

thanks

cosmomiller

I think you got your answer.

1) Use OEM.
2) If you have OEM and it is leaking, then it was not installed correctly. Remove, clean, inspect, install correctly with a wrench.
3) If it still leaks, replace with another OEM filter and install correctly.

B serious

You sure its leaking? The outer "lip" tends to hold oil which will then slowly dribble out over time.

Assuming you torqued it with a wrench....clean up the spilled oil and check back in a day or so.

You can't torque the filter properly by hand.