Please help with header change
#1
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Please help with header change
Trying to do this in my own garage and not having fancy car lift, I'm wondering if anyone tried to swap headers for S2 in your own garage.
How high did you have to raise the car? The S2 has quite lengthy header which is placed in tight engine space. I'm thinking you will need quite a room under the car to move the header in limited engine space, but what is everyone's experience.
Mugen's instruction says to disconnect the steering shaft on one side, but is this really required step?
Please share your experience!!
How high did you have to raise the car? The S2 has quite lengthy header which is placed in tight engine space. I'm thinking you will need quite a room under the car to move the header in limited engine space, but what is everyone's experience.
Mugen's instruction says to disconnect the steering shaft on one side, but is this really required step?
Please share your experience!!
#2
I did the Toda header in my garage with a floor jack and two jackstands. Look here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=144699
I never disconnected the steering shaft. I think this is for those with right hand drive cars.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=144699
I never disconnected the steering shaft. I think this is for those with right hand drive cars.
#4
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I installed a Mugen header on my 04 recently, using two 18inch floor jacks set at their max height.
Getting the stock header out thru the bottom was no problem, but the Mugen wouldn't go in that way.
Instead, I managed to slide it in from the top, without removing anything other than the heat shields. It was a very tight fit, but there is an angle that works. You'll have to be careful not to scratch painted parts, such as the valve cover, with the headers sharp edges. Tape could help prevent this.
Also, you're going to find that one of the lower, inside header nuts is super hard to thread because of how the two inside tubes are angled. A torque wrench won't even fit, at least with standard sockets, etc. To even get the nut started, I had my dad hold a small center punch against the tip of the thread, and then I rode the nut through the punch. This allowed it to stay in place, even if I screwed up trying to thread it. If you do screw up without the punch, which is really easy to do, the nut falls and is difficult to catch.
Myabe there's a better way, but it worked.
Getting the stock header out thru the bottom was no problem, but the Mugen wouldn't go in that way.
Instead, I managed to slide it in from the top, without removing anything other than the heat shields. It was a very tight fit, but there is an angle that works. You'll have to be careful not to scratch painted parts, such as the valve cover, with the headers sharp edges. Tape could help prevent this.
Also, you're going to find that one of the lower, inside header nuts is super hard to thread because of how the two inside tubes are angled. A torque wrench won't even fit, at least with standard sockets, etc. To even get the nut started, I had my dad hold a small center punch against the tip of the thread, and then I rode the nut through the punch. This allowed it to stay in place, even if I screwed up trying to thread it. If you do screw up without the punch, which is really easy to do, the nut falls and is difficult to catch.
Myabe there's a better way, but it worked.
#5
I've pulled and reinstalled a Mugen header more than once. I always do it from underneath making sure I have a lot of clearance (20 - 24" if you can get it). I find it easy to prop the engine and remove the motor mount to clear the way although it can be done (with much difficulty) without doing that.
#7
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I was able to install mine without removing any of the mounts from underneath. I used 4 jackstands on all 4 corners and used the Honda spare jack to raise the engine from underneath, providing all the clearance I needed.
It takes patience, but it can be done without harm to any of the parts.
It takes patience, but it can be done without harm to any of the parts.
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