Dark

Quick question;

I am going to purchase new bearings monday and probably the rubber output shaft seals too.

Is there anything else I should purchase for when I drop the diff and replace the bearings?

(this is all considering the case is in good working order)


...is there anything special I need to do to remove the output shafts?

xviper

For the seals, it's a lot easier if you have the proper seal "punch" tool. Otherwise, you oil it up and fiddy with it till it goes in straight. Once you open it up and remove the end caps, you'll know why and if they are loose, if indeed that's what's making it have so much play. Hopefully, the end cap bolts aren't stripped.
To get the output shafts out, you'll need a strong, length of pry bar and good leverage to "snap" them out. It takes a sharp snap to compress the circlip enough to break it from the groove. It only has to snap out 1/4" and then you can pull it out by hand. Be very careful you don't move the LSD or you'll screw up the tooth pattern between the ring and pinion. Then you'll have to do a parital diff calibration and you probably don't have the tools for that. If you do only one at a time, you can keep the other one in place to act as a stopper.

SpitfireS

Replacing the bearings on the Torsen IS NOT AN EASY JOB!
I broke a new puller on them and ended up taping the whole Torsen up (to seal it) and taking an angle ginder to cut through the inner bearing ring to get it off.
Then I used a bearing heater to put the new ones on.
Heated to 110 C.
And you need a (hydrolic) press for that IMO.
And you need some "special" pressing bushings because the (Torsen) ring where the bearing ring goes on is just a bit higher then the bearing and it needs to be flush with the Torsen (hard to explain with words)
The fitment is so tight I don't know If they fit without pre heating.
I had that thing present (@ work ) so I used it.
Pre-heating is not listed as a "must" by the service manual.

For pictures and the whole story:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=395195

You can't replace one bearing at a time, you have to take the Torsen out.
Loosing the caps also (most likely) moves the adjuster nuts.
That alone implies you have to find the proper contact patch and backlash again.
It's not rocket science, with the proper tools it is not difficult.
Succes

Dark

whoa...I figured it was going to be more in-depth then I was thinking.

So lets say I get the diff out of the car where would be a good place to take it? I know InlinePRO builds the diffs but I am unsure how well, and the only other place I can think of is the dealership.

I guess I have some phone calls to make.

SpitfireS

Dark Posted on Jul 23 2006, 04:14 PM
Read what xviper posted about getting the output shafts out and if you think you can do that, then do it.
Lift the back cover and please... please take / post some pictures!
It would be very interesting for all of us (and you too of course!) to see before anyone starts taking things further apart where that play is.
You can put the output shafts back in (without the circlips) and feel.

Those bearings are tapered ones, meaning if they have play up and down (radial) they also have it axial and IMO the ring & pinion setup would have been upset enough to go BOOM when driven.
(So 'm thinking thats not it)

My guess after reading all of this topic again is: the output shafts are worn where they are supported by the Torsen.
Measurement of the Torsen inner diameter there (and of the output shafts outside diameter) will provide the data to make a decision if the Torsen itself also needs to be replaced.
If the Torsen is allright, you may need two new output shafts and you're

What puzzles me is HOW it happend if that turns out to be right.
I posted my thoughts about that earlier (oil level)

Succes Dark

Dark

Alright, so tomorrow night I will further inspect the problem. I will start with removing the output shafts...comparing them, feeling inside the rear end (dont get any ideas) for anything that may stand out (loose bearing or whatnot) and then try the shafts in opposite locations (considering they are identical and can be switched).

I will post pics of the initial finds.

Dark

Pulled off the new cv shaft and inspected the output shafts; the output shafts aren't nearly as bad as I was stating.
Drivers side output shaft has about 1-2mm play up and down and about 1-1.5mm front to back (maybe 1mm in and out). About identical to the other side.

I looked around and everything seems to look ok, I inspected the drive shaft and it had zero play (slides backward and forward but I am sure thats normal). The suspension 'looks' fine but it did cross my mind that if the strut was bad would it cause these problems?

Anything else I should check?
I'm going to have the front wheels balanced just for peace of mind.

Sorry no pics, there really wasnt anything to take pictures of.

glagola1

Man, I really don't think this is a diff issue. Have you checked your alignment? TRY BORROWING SOME STOCK WHEELS AND TIRES from a local S2000 guy for a test.

The movement or play you described sounds completely normal.

xviper

This is quite different from your first observation:
What you just observed is normal. The vibration is due to something else, not your diff. You should still look more carefully at the CVs.

Dark

I have a set of stock wheels and I swapped the rears a wek or so ago...the issue didn't seem as noticable but it was still there. I could try and swap the fronts just in case.

I will inspect the cvs again but when I compared them to my new one they semed identical; no play, noise, etc.