Performance of Toda header without EMS
#1
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Performance of Toda header without EMS
I have been doing some research into the Toda header, and I have found that many people are posting excellent results with an AEM ems, which for me isn't an option really. I can budget the money for the header, and I am going to get an aem v1 intake as well, and I already have an Invidia exhaust, but what I am wondering is, if there are any gains without the EMS. The ems is about $2000, plus dyno time, and I don't even have a dyno in my area. Any feedback on this would be apreciated.
#2
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You can definitely find an EMS for less than $2000. The last few I've seen sold here went from $1200-1600.
In terms of the power you will pick up it's all dependent on your particular engine and I'm sure the ECU plays a part. I think you will notice more of a gain on an 02-03 car then you would the 00-01 but this is simply an educated guess on my part. If you research past threads discussing the Toda header it has shown to pick up power on its own; but, like with all S2000 modifications the gain per price paid isn't always the greatest.
In terms of the power you will pick up it's all dependent on your particular engine and I'm sure the ECU plays a part. I think you will notice more of a gain on an 02-03 car then you would the 00-01 but this is simply an educated guess on my part. If you research past threads discussing the Toda header it has shown to pick up power on its own; but, like with all S2000 modifications the gain per price paid isn't always the greatest.
#3
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How patient are you? I just ordered a Toda header that should be here within a couple of weeks. I'll do a before/after dyno to see what kind of gains the header adds by itself.
My current mods are:
- AEM v1 CAI
- Toda SpecA v2 cams & Toda valve springs
- Mild port & polish
- Hondata Intake Manifold insulator
I have a VAFC, too, but it probably won't be re-installed and tuned until after I get my exhaust (around August).
My current mods are:
- AEM v1 CAI
- Toda SpecA v2 cams & Toda valve springs
- Mild port & polish
- Hondata Intake Manifold insulator
I have a VAFC, too, but it probably won't be re-installed and tuned until after I get my exhaust (around August).
#5
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I just ran into this thread...the EMS is definitely available for less than $2000 brand new so I'm sure you can get it for less than that used if you were to be patient.
In any case, to get the most of out practically any mod, tuning with a system like the EMS is useful but you will still get useable gains out of a header without it without it.
In any case, to get the most of out practically any mod, tuning with a system like the EMS is useful but you will still get useable gains out of a header without it without it.
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#9
i lost power tooo i got 187hp and 135?tq.
lost almost 20 hp from my last setup.... difference is i was running considerably richer......
mxt_77 how close does ur header sit from the motor mount?
lost almost 20 hp from my last setup.... difference is i was running considerably richer......
mxt_77 how close does ur header sit from the motor mount?
#10
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When you dyno your car, here's a few tips I can suggest to dealing with heatsoak. (it's a trick I used during autocross between runs). After you shut down your engine...
1. Open your windows/doors and all vents.
2. Turn the temp knob to full heat
3. Set the fans on MAX.
4. Put the ignition to ON (but don't start the motor).
5. Switch on the AC button.
This will kick on the radiator fans and it'll help cool down the coolant in the radiator and the heater core/heat exchanger. Leave these on for about 2-3 minutes, then...
1. Turn off the AC button. (you must do this to prevent the AC compressor from running)
2. Run the engine for about 2-3 minutes.
3. Turn off the engine and repeat the above steps #1-5.
These last 3 steps allow the engine to move the cooled off coolant into the engine and move more hot coolant into the heater core/heat exchanger and radiator. I've monitored external temps of the intake manifold body to include each runner (with my Snap-On pyrometer) and the temps do drop as much as 75F degrees if the conditions are good.
1. Open your windows/doors and all vents.
2. Turn the temp knob to full heat
3. Set the fans on MAX.
4. Put the ignition to ON (but don't start the motor).
5. Switch on the AC button.
This will kick on the radiator fans and it'll help cool down the coolant in the radiator and the heater core/heat exchanger. Leave these on for about 2-3 minutes, then...
1. Turn off the AC button. (you must do this to prevent the AC compressor from running)
2. Run the engine for about 2-3 minutes.
3. Turn off the engine and repeat the above steps #1-5.
These last 3 steps allow the engine to move the cooled off coolant into the engine and move more hot coolant into the heater core/heat exchanger and radiator. I've monitored external temps of the intake manifold body to include each runner (with my Snap-On pyrometer) and the temps do drop as much as 75F degrees if the conditions are good.