Is this part interchangeable on the differential?
#11
Registered User
Originally Posted by SgtB' timestamp='1316046713' post='20974092
You don't have to worry about spacers and all that mess, just torque the nut to spec.
According to the service manual you find the spec by turning the pinion - in an empty diff!
(IOW: without the ring gear installed)
You can mark the position of the nut and re-tighten to that point after the seal swap but you'll be guesstimating the torque and pre-load on the pinion bearings.
It is not super-duper critical but if you overtighten you will damage your pinion bearings.
If you then back-off the pinion nut your crush sleeve will not uncrush and you end up with loose bearings.
That is the point Stratocaster was making: you need to know what you are doing
#12
Thread Starter
Right, I know for sure that the nut holding the pinion is not rated at ft/lbs, but more so on it's turning ability. Should be a slight resist from what I was advised. Going to inspect the diff today and check it out. Thanks guys .
Special thanks to PuddyDad
Special thanks to PuddyDad
#13
Thread Starter
Okay so diff turned out to be good. It's only leaking because of that companion flange moves back and forth.
The nut was never replaced. Now that flange is not something that should be moving is it? When it's fully extended out, I can BARELY see the rubber boot underneath.
The nut was never replaced. Now that flange is not something that should be moving is it? When it's fully extended out, I can BARELY see the rubber boot underneath.
#17
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If only it was gold
The "gold" is the thin metal sleeve, with the rubber seal vulcanized to it.
First find a tube - not too thick walled, or something simular - to slide over the pinion splines to avoid damage to it.
Then use a screwdriver - or a proper small chisel - to break the front of the metal sleve.
Chisel from out to in - hitting the pinion protector, if you know what I mean.
Then use pointy nose pliers to "wind-up" the metal sleeve, just like you open a tin of sardines.
The metal sleeve is pretty thin and will tear once you have a cut.
As soon as the metal sleeve is - partly - broken you should be able to pull the seal out.
There are official seal pullers too.
Most are just a hook, but with the pinion still there I don't think they work.
Then you got the cork-screw type seal puller but I don't know you have enough material to get grip.
Be VERY CAREFULL not to damage the bore your new seal has to go in.
The "gold" is the thin metal sleeve, with the rubber seal vulcanized to it.
First find a tube - not too thick walled, or something simular - to slide over the pinion splines to avoid damage to it.
Then use a screwdriver - or a proper small chisel - to break the front of the metal sleve.
Chisel from out to in - hitting the pinion protector, if you know what I mean.
Then use pointy nose pliers to "wind-up" the metal sleeve, just like you open a tin of sardines.
The metal sleeve is pretty thin and will tear once you have a cut.
As soon as the metal sleeve is - partly - broken you should be able to pull the seal out.
There are official seal pullers too.
Most are just a hook, but with the pinion still there I don't think they work.
Then you got the cork-screw type seal puller but I don't know you have enough material to get grip.
Be VERY CAREFULL not to damage the bore your new seal has to go in.
#18
Thread Starter
Got it! I just got the service manual for it and was a little confused. Looking at the diagram, it made it seem as if the rubber and gold colored metal were 2 different parts although they are binded. I was afraid of damaging that part. Just took a screwdriver and covered the pinion splines and used some elbow grease and it popped off.
Got the new oil seal, going to snap it on today and install the diff this weekend. Kind of excited for the 4.77's! Will post an update later this weekend!
Got the new oil seal, going to snap it on today and install the diff this weekend. Kind of excited for the 4.77's! Will post an update later this weekend!
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