Painting plastic parts Suzuka Blue Metallic
#11
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Well, my bad - shoulda thought twice.
I wonder whether it's worthwhile to try to pressure them to come back and fine sand it and apply a clear coat. Wouldn't improve color match, but might look better.
Or maybe I could do that myself? Can one get clear coat paint in a spray can? I don't have a sprayer - have a friend with one, but not that much time now.
I wonder whether it's worthwhile to try to pressure them to come back and fine sand it and apply a clear coat. Wouldn't improve color match, but might look better.
Or maybe I could do that myself? Can one get clear coat paint in a spray can? I don't have a sprayer - have a friend with one, but not that much time now.
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They will cause more damage...look what they already did? You really want them to continue to mess up your car? Not to mention they probably gave you a fake number etc...its s scam and their line is always "give it a day and it will look better"way? Because they will be long gone by then.
Get it to a real repair shop to get it fixed. If you went to a shop originally the charge probably would have been around $300 for a FULL respray.
Get it to a real repair shop to get it fixed. If you went to a shop originally the charge probably would have been around $300 for a FULL respray.
#13
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Originally Posted by oldtrlrnr,May 23 2009, 02:38 PM
Well, my bad - shoulda thought twice.
I wonder whether it's worthwhile to try to pressure them to come back and fine sand it and apply a clear coat. Wouldn't improve color match, but might look better.
Or maybe I could do that myself? Can one get clear coat paint in a spray can? I don't have a sprayer - have a friend with one, but not that much time now.
I wonder whether it's worthwhile to try to pressure them to come back and fine sand it and apply a clear coat. Wouldn't improve color match, but might look better.
Or maybe I could do that myself? Can one get clear coat paint in a spray can? I don't have a sprayer - have a friend with one, but not that much time now.
did you see what they are using? Cans? portable compressor with guns?
the next step very critical but we can't make the decision for you.
if you are trying to get it done right/perfect again then don't clear coat it, it's going to take long long time and work to undo the crap after CC
if you just want to make it little bit better then by all mean use a spray can paint but do be adviced: the color will not change(aka self correct), it would just be shinier. The finish and durability of 1k paint will not be any where near as long as 2k quality product, (for example: UV protection sucks on the low end stuff)
the chances are they are just using 1k primer, rattle can paint, you can undo the damage by various off the shelf chemical.
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Here is the deal:
When you buy metallic, it's the _amount_ and _size_ of metal flake in the paint that makes the paint mismatch. That's the bottom line. It's near impossible to do a perfect match. Even if you get the very same batch of paint from the very Honda manuf. plant in Japan, and store it, after 3 years it won't match. UV does its dirty work...
These are your main 2 factors.
Now, don't despair. There's hope.
Any professional paintshop will not paint the whole front clip! They will paint the minimum, then do a 'blend' onto surrounding surfaces, never ending with a joint (fender/door, hood/fender joint, etc.).
It's hard to do, but the result is virtually indistinguishable 'blend'. It'll cost a bit more, but it's the only right way to do it.
When you buy metallic, it's the _amount_ and _size_ of metal flake in the paint that makes the paint mismatch. That's the bottom line. It's near impossible to do a perfect match. Even if you get the very same batch of paint from the very Honda manuf. plant in Japan, and store it, after 3 years it won't match. UV does its dirty work...
These are your main 2 factors.
Now, don't despair. There's hope.
Any professional paintshop will not paint the whole front clip! They will paint the minimum, then do a 'blend' onto surrounding surfaces, never ending with a joint (fender/door, hood/fender joint, etc.).
It's hard to do, but the result is virtually indistinguishable 'blend'. It'll cost a bit more, but it's the only right way to do it.
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