S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Painful Overrev

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Old 11-22-2015, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by S2KFAN27
Originally Posted by Soviet' timestamp='1448236020' post='23809918
[quote name='S2KFAN27' timestamp='1448235633' post='23809916']
Thanks for all the replies, I will see if I can find someone knowledgeable on this matter so we can see how badly damaged it is.

These are the pieces that I was able to get from the intake manifold:

Upload the picture to a third party site and then link it.
Here
https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b0&oe=56E13BD6
[/quote]

Valve stem and part of valve seat?
Old 11-22-2015, 05:44 PM
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The fact that the engine don't turn over isn't good, I would drop the oil pan and see what's going on in there..
From there make your decision on if a rebuild of the head or an entire replacement is in order.
Old 11-22-2015, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 2003AP1
The fact that the engine don't turn over isn't good, I would drop the oil pan and see what's going on in there..
From there make your decision on if a rebuild of the head or an entire replacement is in order.
Tomorrow I'll try to do that, I'll remove the oil pan and the valve cover and post some pictures.

Thanks.
Old 11-22-2015, 06:37 PM
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Here is my guess: Mis shift might have caused over rev then valve retainer cracked, the valves could drop to the combustion chamber and hit the piston. Then valves were bent or broken, valve seats damaged, valve guide twisted and you can see these metals from your intake...

I think best case scenario is to have a new cylinder head, worst is to replace the whole engine...think positive, it's time to have a newer engine isn't it.
Old 11-22-2015, 07:00 PM
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Your pistons and head are toast guaranteed minimum. What a bummer In my experienced as soon as you have to pull the engine and get into the bottom end for anything, it gets cost prohibitive compared to the alternative of buying and dropping in a complete used long block. Typically these engines come complete with intake manifold to valve cover, literally drop in which will save some labor cost. Ive been through this 5 times in my s2000 "career". Last swap I found a great deal on an F22 for $2500 with 34k miles on it which I drove 300 miles to go pick up, and then paid a local Honda mechanic I trust $1000 for the swap, which is a typical fair price for the swap so factor that into the cost of engine. Typically your going to pay about $3500 for a F22 with less then 60k miles if the market is what it was 1-2 years ago when I was looking. I wouldn't go much more miles then that on a used engine myself. F22 is a nice upgrade in trq and updates, one that may even have been able to prevent this particular issue or reduce its severity. You no doubt broke the weak retainers and dropped your valves into the cylinders as a result. F22 did beef these retainers up. You may have just bent some valves rather then drop them and destroy your pistons/cylinders walls and combustion chamber etc.
Old 11-22-2015, 07:08 PM
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sucks it happened man. Check out TAE used auto parts they are reputable and in the Honda community. They always have quite the stock on F20/22 motors and trans. Their pricing is pretty good in my opinion for being a used parts center.




Good luck, there is quite a few S2000 shops in that area or make a post in your regional forum for help. maybe you could make some friends.


Old 11-23-2015, 04:54 AM
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I would say no on the other than f series swap. You need the ability to fab components to swap efficiently. If you can't your car will be down a long time.

F20 vs f22 is the interesting debate to me. I can see up sides to both motors. If the car is mint original low mile, I would lean to a f20 to keep it factory. If the car is a driver or track special I would consider a f22. Cost is a factor too. Good luck
Old 11-23-2015, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by S2KFAN27
Tomorrow I'll try to do that, I'll remove the oil pan and the valve cover and post some pictures.
You may not need to do this. I'm pretty sure you are going to find a lot of damaged parts. Maybe better to pull engine and separate head from block. See if cams and crank can be salvaged. If not ---> look for another engine.


While one this subject --- are there any kits to put gear selection display on the dash? At least give you a split second chance to put the gear back into neutral, before dropping the clutch? Thanks!
Old 11-23-2015, 11:46 AM
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If just a small amount of water that gets into the combustion chamber is enough to snap rods in two, then wouldn't a valve dropping into the cylinder be more than sufficient to inevitably snap a rod in his engine? I would assume the moving parts in the block would be toast
Old 11-24-2015, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jkelley
If just a small amount of water that gets into the combustion chamber is enough to snap rods in two, then wouldn't a valve dropping into the cylinder be more than sufficient to inevitably snap a rod in his engine? I would assume the moving parts in the block would be toast

A small amount of water is a subjective messurment. Has someone measured the amount of water the car inhaled? Nope. Because that's impossible to know. Could be 5 gallons. Could be 2 drops.

If the volume of the liquid is higher than the volume of the cylinder at TDC, then you will likely bend a rod. The reason is that liquid is not compressible. The rotating assembly has (a lot of) inertia. And the head can only be lifted a few micro-inches. The distribution of load is totally even across the entire surface of the piston top, and volume of the cylinder. The weakest point in that scenario is the rod because that's where the stress concentration builds.

When a valve drops into the cylinder, there is a concentrated point(s) where the valve makes contact with other components. The valve will bend, and the points are more likely to punch through cylinder walls, the piston, and the head rather than bend a rod.

The same reason why you can drive a truck over a wooden plank and bend the I-beam underneath without breaking the wood....but drive a nail through the same piece of wood with relatively low resistance. It is found by measuring force over area (pressure). Find the point with force being applied over a small area (high pressure points). Thats where things fail.

Over-revs in S2000's *typically* result in valve contact and/or valve failure first. The valve then punches holes through everything it is smashed against. It is the nail and the piston is the hammer. The rods are usually OK structurally. But everything up top is wrecked.


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