slipstream444

I was driving this afternoon - faster than I want to admit and I had about 5-6 flashes of the MIL/CEL, and then the light went out. I was in 5th (VTEC range) shifting to 6th (keep in mind I'm running 4.44s) when the light flashed.
There were no other indications of any problems. I did not notice any signs of detonation, miss-firing, no notable loss of power - only the flashing CEL.

I hooked up my ElmCan and read the code with the Rev app on my iPhone - but only got the generic (SAE) P1399 code. I did not clear the code - but it was gone by the time I got to the AutoZone to see if they could pull a more specific code.

My gut feeling is it has something to do with my last tank of gas. I noted the gas smelled sweeter than normal - possibly indicating a higher than normal ethanol content. I filled up at a Shell station off of HWY10 to the East of Pensacola (Avalon Blvd exit) with 93 octane. I was about at half a tank when my car threw the code, so I went and filled up with some BP 93, and then topped it off with some 91 octane ethanol free I had in my work shed (along with an extra helping of Redline SI-1). I took the car out and tried to repeat the code - but nothing.

Any thoughts?

notaloafer

My Dad told me when I was growing up to NEVER use Shell gasoline - no matter what. He had a bad experience with it ruining a motorcycle of his in the past. Anyways, I decided that he was just overreacting so I decided to try a tank of it one day in my old corolla when I was really desperate (no gas stations around, last hope sorta thing). This car had ZERO issues - always started, never died, was an awesome car. Filled it up with Shell regular, went about a block to a stop light, and the engine just died. The car had NEVER stalled in the entire 3 years I owned it. I got it to start back up again but it ran rough until I was able to get rid of enough bad gas to mix with some good Chevron. Never had an issue again, then again I never have went back to a Shell station... and never will.

There's my two cents!

Billman250

Get the freeze data from the misfire code.

jkelley

Not to be a prick or anything, but this means nothing to me about your opinion towards Shell, and I sincerely hope that it doesn't for others as well.

slipstream444

Billman - as I mentioned in my initial post, I took my car to Autozone in order to get a more specific code downloaded and there was no code data stored on the computer. I did not erase the code or disconnect the battery either. Will the dealership be able to extract more detailed information?


I plan on pulling the spark plugs, checking the valve lash and doing a leak down this week.

Like I previously stated - there was no outward indication of a problem - only the momentarily flashing MIL.

notaloafer

Not to be a prick or anything, but this means nothing to me about your opinion towards Shell, and I sincerely hope that it doesn't for others as well.
[/quote]

No worries. I've just had bad experiences with Shell - too many to call it a coincidence.

Billman250

If you have a code, the freeze data is there guaranteed.

Very smart not clearing anything. Keep it that way.

The dealer will definitely have the ability, but may not have the smarts. Make it known you want the freeze data recorded for your code before they touch the car.

slipstream444

Thanks Billman - will do.

I just got around to taking a look at my car.
I started by pulling the spark plugs - honestly not expecting to see anything abnormal, and discovered all but one of the plugs was out of gap specification - and the only one in spec was so borderline you could call it out of spec (1.1mm+).
I only use Honda red box spark plugs and I know the plugs were within specs when installed. I thought I changed them out in 2012 - but I discovered 4 brand new unopened red box plugs sitting in my parts drawer indicating I pulled the plugs in 2012 expecting to change them, and upon inspection the plugs were well within specs and looked good, and therefore I just reinstalled them. This also means these plugs likely have well over 25k on them. Cylinder #1 had the worst looking plug and the largest gap disparity (1.25mm+), the other two out of spec plugs were between 1.15mm and 1.20mm. All but the #1 plug had relatively normal looking light tannish coloration. The #1 plug looked like the cylinder was running slightly rich (incomplete combustion) - likely due to the excessive gap. It wasn't 'wet', but it was more black, with the tannish coloration blasted away. There was also what appeared to be a microscopic piece of metal welded to the bottom of the electrode - about the size of the the first 0.05mm of a point of a needle in diameter and less than 0.1mm in length. It wouldn't readily scrape off. I peered into the cylinders and all of the piston heads were relatively clean with no signs of detonation visible. I don't have a borescope so I couldn't see the entire piston head. Cylinder #1 showed ever so slightly more carbon.

I still plan on checking the valve lash and then doing a leak-down to check if there are any other problems, and will post results. My gut feeling is the misfire was due to the spark plug condition due to the fact the flashing CEL/MIL was not accompanied by any noticeable engine malfunction symptoms.

slipstream444

Well - pissed won't begin to describe what I am feeling here. I was finalizing the valve adjustment when one of the adjustment screws snapped. Thankfully, the portion of the screw that snapped off (with the locknut on board) fell outside of the engine and I found it on the floor. It was the furthest aft exhaust valve which just so happens to have an oil drain port right under it. You could have heard the air pressure leave the room when it happened. I didn't see any signs of debris from the break - but I won't know for sure until I get the cams out and marry the two pieces together.
With regard to the adjustment check - everything was in spec, but I did adjust the lash on a couple tight intake valves, and was in the process of adjusting a loose exhaust valve (the subject of the break) when the fun happened.

Billman - I remember you mentioning an important step in the procedures for removing and reinstalling the camshafts to prevent cross-threading the assembly bolts (you mentioned it while your were changing out my intake retainers). Can you please refresh my memory, because I'm going to have to pull out the rocker assembly in order to remove the lower portion of the broken adjustment screw. Additionally, I think I will replace all of the adjustment screws and locknuts while I have it apart. The screw must have been fatigued to snap at less than 18NM - I was torquing it down with an inch-lb torque wrench. Please advise if there are any other important considerations while doing this.

Thanks

Jaids

I also snapped a tappet screw and I know that exact feeling.

I don't have any reinstall info outside of the service manual, but I can share my frustrations and eventual success in removing the remainder of the tappet screw.

I removed the camshafts and flipped the rocker up and tried to twist the screw out a pair of vice grips. The vice grips kept slipping; the surface had spent it's entire life in oil and was smooth before that. I considered replacing the rocker itself, but that would be more work, money, and time (best case scenario two days to overnight a new part from CA).

Instead of that I took a half dozen blue shop towels, coated them in motor oil, and covered the entire valvetrain assembly except for the rocker. Then I had a friend hold the shopvac while I ground flats on the tappet screw. I was able to get purchase and twist the screw out.

Good luck!