P1106 Code Help
#11
Moderator
Your scanner only says the catergory of the code, because it cannot define codes above P1000.
"P1106 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem" is the code with definiton, as RevHi posted. go with that.
"P1106 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem" is the code with definiton, as RevHi posted. go with that.
#12
Former Moderator
Your probably getting the permanent, and temporary DTC's for the P1106. That's your 2 codes. P1106 is a multiple trip DTC. You have to drive at the monitor's requirements to get the test to run. 2 consecutive failures and the CEL is on, DTC stored.
The BARO and MAP sensor control fuel/air metering. That's why it's coming up undr generic OBDII as a fuel air metering code. BARO range/performance is the specific failure.
If you have a scan tool that will read data stream, turn the key on and monitor the MAP and BARO reading. They should be the same with the engine not running.
If the 2 sensors don't match, either your connections are screwed the Map sensor is bad or the BARO sensor is bad. The ESM complicates thing becase it's installed on the MAP sensor input wire.
The BARO and MAP sensor control fuel/air metering. That's why it's coming up undr generic OBDII as a fuel air metering code. BARO range/performance is the specific failure.
If you have a scan tool that will read data stream, turn the key on and monitor the MAP and BARO reading. They should be the same with the engine not running.
If the 2 sensors don't match, either your connections are screwed the Map sensor is bad or the BARO sensor is bad. The ESM complicates thing becase it's installed on the MAP sensor input wire.
#13
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Thanx for the help everyone. I reset the codes and I havent gotten the CEL all day *crosses fingers* The only thing I did was velcro the ESM box to the side of the car so it wouldn't jiggle.
#16
Former Moderator
I've got my own scan tool, it's a bit pricey for the DIY. It does tell me everything I need to know from a stock Honda PCM. (It's a Honda scanner)
Finding an aftermarket tool that can read the BARO volts is your biggest issue. Since I don't have to mess with aftermarket scan tools, I'm not much help on this one. Billman250 may be able to give you some better resources for a scanner/diag tool.
The PCM won't go into a back-up or failsafe mode. I've set this DTC from messing with an e-manage.How are you pulling the codes now? Are you going to autozone, or using the "flashing CEL" method?
It's possible you may have damaged the PCM, but not likely. The BARO sensor has no external wire you can tap into.
Finding an aftermarket tool that can read the BARO volts is your biggest issue. Since I don't have to mess with aftermarket scan tools, I'm not much help on this one. Billman250 may be able to give you some better resources for a scanner/diag tool.
The PCM won't go into a back-up or failsafe mode. I've set this DTC from messing with an e-manage.How are you pulling the codes now? Are you going to autozone, or using the "flashing CEL" method?
It's possible you may have damaged the PCM, but not likely. The BARO sensor has no external wire you can tap into.
#19
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I'm using an OBDII code reader (same as autozone uses). From what I am hearing from comptech the Baro sensor is in fact a part of the ecu and the code I'm getting is usually caused from "fried" ecu's. You think I would be better off purchasing a used ecu on the boards and giving it a try?
#20
Former Moderator
I said the BARO was built into the PCM on my 1st post
I wouldn't buy a PCM hoping it would fix it. You can't just plug in the new one and have the car run. The Immobilizer keys must be programmed. Which means a mandatory trip to the dealer.
I wouldn't buy a PCM hoping it would fix it. You can't just plug in the new one and have the car run. The Immobilizer keys must be programmed. Which means a mandatory trip to the dealer.