Overrevved...
#1
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Overrevved...
I still can't believe I actually did it, but today I accidentally shifted from 3rd to 2nd instead of 4th. I'm not 100% sure of the RPM I was at, but I think it was about 65-70 mph in 3rd when I shifted... obviously letting the clutch out at such a high RPM slowed the car down a bit and I realized my mistake before or possibly just after I'd let the clutch out completely (maybe 1 second of overrevving). I've been scouring the forum for info for the past hour or so and have picked up that the F22C has strong valve retainers that will likely hold up without damage unless valves actually come in contact with the pistons. After leaving the car parked at school all day, the drive home was fine with no CEL's or rough idling. I'm just under 3,000 miles, can I wait to have the valves/retainers inspected at my 1st service or should I do something about it now? Or just not worry about it? I'm still in disbelief, I feel like I don't deserve the car anymore...
#2
I think that if you didn't get a CEL you should be fine. Because of your quick reaction maybe it didn't rev up to the maximum # of revs that a 3rd-2nd downshift would increase to.
Maybe others can comment on this as well. Hopefully nothing happened.
Maybe others can comment on this as well. Hopefully nothing happened.
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Happens to the best of us...
You are right about the upgraded valve retainers, and would most likely not have to worry about your valvetrain unless you revved to well beyond AP1 capabilities (9k and above). The parts I would be concerned about would be parts that could be damaged from beyond 8k rpms in the AP2, which would be pistons, rings, rods, connectors, etc.
Run a compression test on all cylinders. If compression looks good, your engine sounds fine, and you're not coming up with a CEL, you should be fine.
You are right about the upgraded valve retainers, and would most likely not have to worry about your valvetrain unless you revved to well beyond AP1 capabilities (9k and above). The parts I would be concerned about would be parts that could be damaged from beyond 8k rpms in the AP2, which would be pistons, rings, rods, connectors, etc.
Run a compression test on all cylinders. If compression looks good, your engine sounds fine, and you're not coming up with a CEL, you should be fine.
#5
Swift dont worry brother. Not an expert here but I recently swapped my F20 for an F22 but still have the AP1 ECU. So I can still rev to 9k... I think you see where this is going... After much research I have learned the F22 can reach 8.5k safely but no reason to take it there every time we shift. I have yet to throw a CEL or idle rough. No knock or weird noise. I would be carful and try to find the right gate for the right gear lol. If it blows up... well... YAY for a F24 with a turbo build haha
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Originally Posted by RedSex2k,Sep 28 2009, 07:46 PM
Happens to the best of us...
You are right about the upgraded valve retainers, and would most likely not have to worry about your valvetrain unless you revved to well beyond AP1 capabilities (9k and above). The parts I would be concerned about would be parts that could be damaged from beyond 8k rpms in the AP2, which would be pistons, rings, rods, connectors, etc.
Run a compression test on all cylinders. If compression looks good, your engine sounds fine, and you're not coming up with a CEL, you should be fine.
You are right about the upgraded valve retainers, and would most likely not have to worry about your valvetrain unless you revved to well beyond AP1 capabilities (9k and above). The parts I would be concerned about would be parts that could be damaged from beyond 8k rpms in the AP2, which would be pistons, rings, rods, connectors, etc.
Run a compression test on all cylinders. If compression looks good, your engine sounds fine, and you're not coming up with a CEL, you should be fine.
I think I'll do a compression test, can this be done at a local gas station's garage or is it something I should take it to the dealer for (I'd rather the dealer doesn't know that I overrevved the car if I can help it)? How much does it usually cost? I just want to figure all this out so I can get peace of mind ASAP.
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#9
I think dealers usually charge about $100 although I am not sure if that's the fair price. I think you can just ask them for a compression test with no specific reason other than you want to know.