IrishCarBomb

Be careful. If you think the problem now is expensive just wait til you blow your engine.

As you stated you were driving "a little too hard" I'd say to stop doing that until its fixed.

Personally I'd say to change your thermostat again. Water pump have nothing to do with the heat core at all. No heat means you dont have coolant going into your heat core hence thermostat issue. Flush your system and make sure all hoses and clamps are tight. A cracked radiator(across the pressure side and return side) will prevent water circulation. And who knows, it could be your radiator cap as well.

But about your fan not working. Silly question but have you visually checked that its not working. It could be hard to hear from inside of your car. But if you have, check the fan wires. Unplug them and use a voltmeter to check there is current present. If there isn't then move and check the fan relay to see if it needs to be replaced. If again that isn't your problem your fan may need to be replaced.

Anyways Good luck and keep us posted

Billman250

Sounds like the cars cooling system has been air bound since the day you got it.

I guarantee this all started because whoever did the coolant change didn't bleed it. Especially if it's a dealer full of incompetent kids.

No heat=air in the cooling system.

Step one, check your coolant level in the radiator in the morning. You should have done this the instant any problem arose.

Fill it, and find my coolant bleed post in the uth forum.

Do not drive until you have red hot heat, but it may be too late for your engine at this point.

jkelley

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/106...coolant-bleed/
Billman's coolant bleed DIY, for your convenience. This is an EXCELLENT write up

Daxenth

I did the hose check today. Top was hot bottom was ice cold. There's coolant in the radiator though and I didn't see any leaks cracks or holes. But it could be something internally messed up too. All I know is this has been a headache as of the winter beginning. It used to only do it after I've been running her hard. Now its almost daily. But come this check I'm buying a thermostat and in gonna flush the system. and hopefully (dear god I hope) that fixes it. I can tolerate the no heat. I just want it to stop overheating.

And as far as the fans go, yes. I've warmed the car up and pulled it into my driveway after some highway running and street time on multiple occasions. Fan isn't running. But I will hear it kick on on occasion or if I'm lucky I'll see the rare activity in action. But as far as testing I've only checked relays and fuse box connections.

I know I have a lot of you burying your head in your hands right now and I'm sorry. Lol I've never dealt with any sort of issue like this with my last 2 cars. So. A whole new ballgame on a whole new platform.

Daxenth

Also, just read the coolant bleed thread. Lots of good info and I will be sure to do that asap. Like I said I don't think I have any damage on the motor itself. Or if I do its nothing detrimental. I still have a tight head gasket and no leaks. Haven't done a compression test yet but now I'm thinking I should just to be safe. Probably about time to change the plugs anyway

Daxenth

So I'm mid process of getting my new thermostat in. And my step dad isn't filling me with hope. He's saying it could be a cracked block or heater core gone bad. Which. Not good.

About to throw the thermo cover back on seal her up and bleed the coolant/ air out. Update soon to come

Daxenth

alright status update; put new thermostat in, it blipped bar 4 one time in 24 hours and when that happened it went right back to normal temp. and ive been riding her, not beating on it but, not bitch shifting like before. but, the issue at hand now: i get heat at highway speeds, but its cold when i get to cruising or city driving. im thinking its a little valve near the battery in the engine bay. right next to the firewall/ ac lines/ air bleed for the coolant basically sitting above the header.

reason why i say that is the "in" coolant line (behind the module thing) gets hot/ regular temp but the "out" line that runs to the heater core/ fire wall gets luke warm at best. id like to assume thats the "thermoswitch" ive been reading people replacing with the thermostat and stuff.

emdzey01

You still have air in your system...

check your coolant overflow again if it's at the right level. hopefully it sucked some coolant back in after it burped some air out.

stop driving the car until you have heat, if you followed the coolant bleed procedure properly then that's the time to point at other things on the car.

MR.T

Another guy on this forum had a really similar situation to you. It turned out that he was missing the little, black rubber hose that extends to the bottom of the reservoir.

But I agree with the last post, these systems aren't any different than any other car, should be easy enough to burp. If you can't get the air out it might be time for a pressure test, Leak down or compression.

Daxenth

Unfortunately not driving the car is not an option. Like I posted earlier its my dd and I have no access to another car. But I do appreciate the replies. You guys have been an awesome help. I'm doing what I can with what I have. I'll burp it again tomorrow after work. Cause today after I got home while she was nice and hot I loosened the radiator cap and got a little puff of air and then nothing but coolant. Didn't have access to a pair of pliers to get the air bleed cap loose. But I'm sure that's the last of it up in that line. And could you possibly get a pic of what that guy was missing? Not sure what is or isn't there but a pic would help me out a ton