Overheating and heater not working.
11-09-2010, 08:09 PM
#1
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Overheating and heater not working.
Sometimes the car will start to overheat a little. Reach the middle and maybe 1 bar over it on the temp gauge, but will go down if i drive normal. When i turn the heater on, it blows cold. The electronic part of the heater is fine as in the heater core part near the battery is opening and closing fine.
It seems it happens after I get into boost. We changed the themostat and bleed the system but it could be a bad themostat or not a good bleed. Maybe the mishimoto radiator is causing it.
My guess would be to change the themostat one more time and bleed the system the best i can and put the factory radiator back in. Worst comes to worst, change the headgasket.
Oil looks fine with no milky substance and car doesn't smoke.
Car info.
2005 s2000
Comptech supercharger kit / after cooler
81,000 miles
usual bolt ons
no check engine lights.
It seems it happens after I get into boost. We changed the themostat and bleed the system but it could be a bad themostat or not a good bleed. Maybe the mishimoto radiator is causing it.
My guess would be to change the themostat one more time and bleed the system the best i can and put the factory radiator back in. Worst comes to worst, change the headgasket.
Oil looks fine with no milky substance and car doesn't smoke.
Car info.
2005 s2000
Comptech supercharger kit / after cooler
81,000 miles
usual bolt ons
no check engine lights.
11-09-2010, 10:14 PM
#5
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is it leaking from the rad. cap? if its not, dont bother - its holding pressure.
It is most definitely the air bubble in the lines.
Turn your heater on to full while bleeding, make sure on initial bleeding you wait for the t-stat to open before capping. overfill your overflow reservoir so it will displace some airbubbles that might come out. massage all of your hoses to move the air around. keep that bleeder screw open until you get only liquid, close it, rev it up 3-4Kish, repeat, until theres almost no bubbles.
It is most definitely the air bubble in the lines.
Turn your heater on to full while bleeding, make sure on initial bleeding you wait for the t-stat to open before capping. overfill your overflow reservoir so it will displace some airbubbles that might come out. massage all of your hoses to move the air around. keep that bleeder screw open until you get only liquid, close it, rev it up 3-4Kish, repeat, until theres almost no bubbles.
11-10-2010, 07:40 AM
#7
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Looks like you still got some air in the system, and your cap is busted. so fix those two n u should be good to go.
Best method that worked for me is to jack the front as high as you can method. ALso make sure heater setting is at max red (not the fan speed, but the temp dial). After i did that one time, everything was perfect. good luck.
Best method that worked for me is to jack the front as high as you can method. ALso make sure heater setting is at max red (not the fan speed, but the temp dial). After i did that one time, everything was perfect. good luck.
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11-10-2010, 07:59 AM
#8
As mentioned - it's likely air in the system.
It could be a faulty new thermostat - which you can pull and test it.
The firewall bleed spot is key for bleeding. I jack the rear of the car (chock the front wheels) to ensure it's at the highest point, and then bleed IAW the manual.
The car will run at normalish temps at normal loads and speeds simply by the airflow in the engine bay. High loads and low speeds it will get hot.
Check the new thermostat and definetely bleed via the firewall bleed point.
It could be a faulty new thermostat - which you can pull and test it.
The firewall bleed spot is key for bleeding. I jack the rear of the car (chock the front wheels) to ensure it's at the highest point, and then bleed IAW the manual.
The car will run at normalish temps at normal loads and speeds simply by the airflow in the engine bay. High loads and low speeds it will get hot.
Check the new thermostat and definetely bleed via the firewall bleed point.
11-10-2010, 08:00 AM
#9
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sounds like air in the system. just run a few heat cycles and fill up the coolant each time to the MAX line. eventually the system will "suck" in the coolant in the reservoir and you'll be OK.
