Overfilled my engine with oil
#12
Moderator
Correct.
Extra oil does not increase pressure, it increases chances of crankshaft contact to the oil pool.
This will send it airborne, and it will get sucked into the PCV.
A few years ago, a friend of mine hydrolocked his engine at the dragon due to high oil level (1 quart high)
Top of the XXXXX, not the H. No more. Trust me on this one.
Extra oil does not increase pressure, it increases chances of crankshaft contact to the oil pool.
This will send it airborne, and it will get sucked into the PCV.
A few years ago, a friend of mine hydrolocked his engine at the dragon due to high oil level (1 quart high)
Top of the XXXXX, not the H. No more. Trust me on this one.
#13
Correct.
Extra oil does not increase pressure, it increases chances of crankshaft contact to the oil pool.
This will send it airborne, and it will get sucked into the PCV.
A few years ago, a friend of mine hydrolocked his engine at the dragon due to high oil level (1 quart high)
Top of the XXXXX, not the H. No more. Trust me on this one.
Extra oil does not increase pressure, it increases chances of crankshaft contact to the oil pool.
This will send it airborne, and it will get sucked into the PCV.
A few years ago, a friend of mine hydrolocked his engine at the dragon due to high oil level (1 quart high)
Top of the XXXXX, not the H. No more. Trust me on this one.
#14
Billman, after putting the extra oil in my engine I noticed it was starting to "drag"
Before a shift I would clutch in, instead of the rpms dropping slow for a smooth shift, the rpms would drop very fast to idle speed, I would then shift and it just was not smooth at all. Was that to high oil?
Before a shift I would clutch in, instead of the rpms dropping slow for a smooth shift, the rpms would drop very fast to idle speed, I would then shift and it just was not smooth at all. Was that to high oil?
#15
Oil can also be pumped through the larger crankcase breather vent into the intake tube.
When the crank starts churning in the oil it froths up and increased greatly in volume.
I would pull the plugs, disconnect the injectors and crank it over with an open throttle to get the oil out of the cylinders. Even squirt some CRC in there to try and shift the oil. Fit new plugs and see if it will fire, don't forget to reconnect the injectors.
When the crank starts churning in the oil it froths up and increased greatly in volume.
I would pull the plugs, disconnect the injectors and crank it over with an open throttle to get the oil out of the cylinders. Even squirt some CRC in there to try and shift the oil. Fit new plugs and see if it will fire, don't forget to reconnect the injectors.
#16
I think I've found a cool trick (and maybe everyone already knows this) but when I do a fresh oil change (which I did 2 days ago) it's VERY difficult to read the dipstick accurately, as a lot of y'all have said above. So of course I still had the damndest time reading that dipstick and started trying to think of a good way to read it. So I grabbed some clean blue shop towels and basically when I was pulling the dipstick out I would rest the dipstick end down on the towel vertically, and then lightly turned it down on its side horizontally with the towel, and then lightly lifted it back up. Sure enough, it was super easy to see where there was oil, and where there was not of course this isnt full proof, but I did both sides of the dipstick this way and they were very consistent so I felt pretty good about it.
Edit: after re-reading this it probably wasn't very relevant to OP lol. Sorry.
Edit: after re-reading this it probably wasn't very relevant to OP lol. Sorry.
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