dereklanham

So, I don't post a lot, but I read a lot on the forums here. Lots of great info, thanks...

Recently I have been having some brake metallic whistling coming from the driver front wheel, and I have decided that it is just the wear indicator, although I am not 100% since there seems to be too much pad left for this, but it is getting close, so I am going to replace the pads with Carbotech Bobcats (basically a step up from OEM as best I can tell, great experience so far but they aren't on the car yet). Any other thoughts are welcome as to why I might be getting that whistling problem are welcome, but I don't have $50 to buy you a crystal ball, I just spent it on my brake pads...

The real reason for the post.... I have read many different stories about the order for which you are supposed to bleed yet no one seems to debate it with each other. Anyway, I wanted to know if anyone had a logical reason why their order is right. Here are the answers I have seen:

Closest to master cylinder out.
Furthest from master cylinder in.
Clockwise from Driver Front. (counter clock for RHD)

Looking at a Brake line parts schematics (although not a great one), I see no reason that it would make a difference which order. Which reaffirms why no one is willing to argue the point because no one knows why they do it that way (this is called a taunt, bring it on...).

This is what it looks like to me... When you bleed the first wheel in the front or first in the back, you will bleed the system down to the respective ABS (front or back). It looks like we have a front and a back ABS system, can someone confirm. And then on down to that wheel.

Then when you bleed the second wheel in the front or back, you will bleed that line down to the caliper, and that system is done.

Can someone confirm or deny. This is mostly curiousity, as I already know which way i am going to bleed my brakes, even though I am mostly sure it doesn't matter.

gomarlins3

According to Billman in this thread:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=482338

I bottle of ATE Super Blue is surely enough to do the entire car. You'll use 3/4 -7/8 of the container.

By trial, I've found the best sequence is RF, LF, LR, RR.

Empty the master with a turkey baster.

Crack the right front bleeder, the level will start to drop. Get it a little lower, but not enough to suck air.

Fill the master to the very top with ATE blue.

Start with the right front bleeder. Attach a clear hose, and let it gravity bleed till it turns blue.

Repeat for the remaining wheels.

You'll have such a great brake pedal from the gravity bleed it will feel like the pedal is welded to the car smile.gif

I have used this procedure on countless s2ks.

terahertz

about how long did it take for a whole gravity bleed job? just trying to manage my time and when i can get down to doing that too =P

gomarlins3

^PM Billman for that answer.

GotRPMs

I think in that thread somewhere he stated it took about 20 min per wheel to do the bleed. When conducting this method, does the angle of the car come into play?

dereklanham

You guys got to be kidding. I wasn't asking to repeat other threads, I read those... No one every explained why that order was important?

gomarlins3

Because Honda says to do it that way, that's why.

Elistan

My understanding is that the Honda service manual says LF -> RF -> RR -> LR. There's no justification as to why it should be done in this order, Honda simply says so. That's good enough for me.

LuckyStar

Just did the brakes on my S and looked it up on AllData.
Honda Service Manual says LF, RF, RR, LR