Only High Beams Work (No Low Beams)
#1
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Only High Beams Work (No Low Beams)
Hi Everyone,
Just picked up my first S2000 yesterday from out of town. While driving it back at night, I noticed that only my high beams worked. Whether I turned it to low beams or high beams only the high beams would stay on. My day time running lights work as well. I actually got pulled over by a cop and he gave me shit. Luckily he let me off and told me to get it fixed asap when I get home.
I'm not sure if my low beams are burned out because I just got the car. What is the best way to diagnose what's wrong and how to fix it? I'm a noob when it comes to S2000s so I'll definitely need some clear instructions. YOur help is much appreciated.
Thanks
Just picked up my first S2000 yesterday from out of town. While driving it back at night, I noticed that only my high beams worked. Whether I turned it to low beams or high beams only the high beams would stay on. My day time running lights work as well. I actually got pulled over by a cop and he gave me shit. Luckily he let me off and told me to get it fixed asap when I get home.
I'm not sure if my low beams are burned out because I just got the car. What is the best way to diagnose what's wrong and how to fix it? I'm a noob when it comes to S2000s so I'll definitely need some clear instructions. YOur help is much appreciated.
Thanks
#2
Registered User
First check the fuses.. main fuse box by battery, check No. 43 and No. 45 (both 20A fuses).
The 2nd step would typically be to replace a bulb with a known working bulb, but since both of yours are out, this is easier said than done.
Anyway, best way to do it is remove the wheel, and pull back the fender liner to gain access to behind the headlights. The fender liner clips pop out in two steps. Use a flat head screw driver to gently pop out the center section (there's a notch specifically for this), then you can pop them completely out. The front of the fender liner is secured using bolts under the front bumper. You need to remove all clips at least 3/4 of the way back into the wheel well to be able to bend and pull the liner out of the way. Disconnect the battery before you gain access to the bulb. You will need a tamper-proof torx T25 bit in order to remove the bulb cover (tamper proof torx bit sets are chepa at auto store); it's the large circular cover that rotates and pops off (not easy to rotate). Pull the retaining spring away from the bulb (try to remember how it goes, not always easy to get the spring assembly back on the bulb), then turn 45* counter clockwise to remove bulb.
If a known working bulb doesn't work, then you have to poke around checking voltages between the ballast and a ground. If you are comfortable doing this, we can discuss. Since you do not have a working bulb (they are kind of expensive, but use ebay or amazon), you might want to attempt to check the ballast before replacing a bulb.
The 2nd step would typically be to replace a bulb with a known working bulb, but since both of yours are out, this is easier said than done.
Anyway, best way to do it is remove the wheel, and pull back the fender liner to gain access to behind the headlights. The fender liner clips pop out in two steps. Use a flat head screw driver to gently pop out the center section (there's a notch specifically for this), then you can pop them completely out. The front of the fender liner is secured using bolts under the front bumper. You need to remove all clips at least 3/4 of the way back into the wheel well to be able to bend and pull the liner out of the way. Disconnect the battery before you gain access to the bulb. You will need a tamper-proof torx T25 bit in order to remove the bulb cover (tamper proof torx bit sets are chepa at auto store); it's the large circular cover that rotates and pops off (not easy to rotate). Pull the retaining spring away from the bulb (try to remember how it goes, not always easy to get the spring assembly back on the bulb), then turn 45* counter clockwise to remove bulb.
If a known working bulb doesn't work, then you have to poke around checking voltages between the ballast and a ground. If you are comfortable doing this, we can discuss. Since you do not have a working bulb (they are kind of expensive, but use ebay or amazon), you might want to attempt to check the ballast before replacing a bulb.
#3
I'm confused about your description. Do you mean if you turn the switch so that just the headlights would come on the brights will come on? Or that the headlights don't come on at all and the brights will come on when they are switched on?
#4
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So I took my car to mechanic yesterday. He said it looked like monkeys did the day time running light setup (car was originally from US). At first he tried to put a module in it but because it was a US car he couldn't. He ended up configuring it so that my HID's stay on when my car is on and I have high beams as well so everything is good to go and I'll be fine for the safety. Poor guy was at it for almost 3 hours but only charged me for 1.5.
#5
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Ok, poor hack job
Nothing wrong with using the HIDs as mandatory day-time running lights. My HIDs have been on for 99.5% of my car's life and my first bulb didn't crap out until 140k miles.
Nothing wrong with using the HIDs as mandatory day-time running lights. My HIDs have been on for 99.5% of my car's life and my first bulb didn't crap out until 140k miles.
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