My car gets that famous tct rattle. I am planning on buying a new one but after sanding the one I have now as I was tightening the two bolts that hold it to the engine, one of them snapped. Is there an easy way to get the rest of the bolt out?

 

If part of the broken bolt is sticking out, you may be able to put a pair of vice grips on it and twist it out. Otherwise, you need to buy an EZ-out kit to remove it. As I'm sure you know now, the tiny bolts holding the TCT in do not need to force of Thor.

 

I broke the exact same bolt....

bought a EZ out kit... didnt work... got some Left handed drill bits... didnt work.. (be careful and dont F up the threads)

grab a pair of plyers out of my tool box and it came right out!

 

Before I did anything else, I'd be soaking that sucker in a good penetrating oil: Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Howe's Multi-Purpose, CRC has a product with "freezing action" that I've never tried, even WD40 is better than nothing. Soak it, then try to lightly tap the bolt with a punch/center punch to set up a bit of vibration. Gently. Give yourself any edge you can get.Heat can also ease the process, but don't burn your car up or melt a wiring harness.

If pliers/Vise Grips can get a grip on the broken piece, you've solved your problem.

If there's a tiny bit sticking up (too little to grip with pliers/Vise Grips) you MAY be able to cut a small slot in the broken end with a hacksaw or Dremel cutting wheel. (I've done it to other bolts, but don't know if it's feasible on this one. You're looking at it, I'm not.) If successful, a small slotted screwdriver will then remove the bolt. WARNING: cover the area around it with painter's tape so the first slip of the hand doesn't gouge the head. After the first slip, replace with fresh tape.


If I had to drill to use an EZ Out, I'd use a left-hand bit. There's a possibility that the bit would spin the bolt out. If not, you still have the EZ Out. Just keep one thing in mind: if you break off a drill bit or EZ Out in the bolt, ypu're likely HOSED. Those things are very hard metal, and I don't know of any way to consistently save it if they break off.

 

If the broken bolt is down deep in the head, you might try having a machine shop make you a guide (sleeve) out of some tool steel. The guide has a 1/8" hole in the center to guide your 1/8" drill bit down the center of the broken bolt. Without this, it is too easy for the bit to want to walk & get into the threads of the aluminum head.

Oh, before you drill, get a cheap Harbor Freight Transfer punch set (http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piec...-set-3577.html). Use the 0.25" OD punch to mark the center of the bolt to help prevent your drill from walking.

Use a left handed bit if you can & go slow. It just might come out

I recently had to do this on a broken bolt going through the timing chain cover (super charger mount location). I had ~.75" of depth to get to the bolt through the timing chain cover. The guide had a snug fit going into the hole (0.250" in this case) and a 1/8" hole in the center. It worked perfect. I had to use the square EZ out and a little heat from my small propane torch and it came right out.

For the TCT, you will have to use a 90 deg drill.

Good luck!

 

That guide is an excellent idea. I'll file that one away for future use.

Thanks!

 

Use a welder to weld onto the end of the bolt. When there is enough there grab it with a pair of side grips.

I use the tig welder if access allows as its cleaner. Mig will do but mind where any splatter goes.

You can also weld through a nut onto the broken stud for hard to get out cases.

 

Can you unbolt the other bolt and slide the TCT off? It should give you more to work with.

 

I wouldn't try anything until you remove the TCT. You'll likely find there's enough to grab with tiny vise grips and spin it right out.

 

i also removed the Vtec solenoid (right above it). Really opened up the space so you can see what your doing.

Make sure to tape over all the exposed holes.