s2kRae

yeah i see what your saying...that makes sense that they are both braking but maybe the left one isnt letting go all the way and thats why its hotter than all the rest...thanks

Opc

The reason why sometimes bleeding helps is the rust that's creating the friction/problems is removed out the bleeding valve, but thats just a temp patch.

niptek

how did u find out one of your calipers has gone bad? Did you notice when you were braking while driving?

Billman250

All rotors should be the same temp. Your hot rotor is dragging.

4 things can make pads drag on the rotor when the brakes are not being used, causing it to heat up.

-sticking pads: pads that are tight in the calper bracket, because of rust or bad fit of pad..little filing and some grease will fix

-brake hose: hose is holding hydraulic pressure. i have seen this countless times in the industry, but never on the s2k yet. so this is unlikely.

-caliper slide pins: if one or both of the slide pins are frozen, it will hold the outer pad against the rotor. remove pins, clean rust out, lube with grease

-caliper piston: over time, debris and rust can acumilate in the piston, causing it to stick out. sometimes you can remove the piston, clean it out, and it will be like new. other times moisture will have rusted the piston, and you will need a caliper

TEST: place car on stands, wheels off. hold brake down hard, release.

step out of the car and try to turn rotors by hand. they should turn easily with one hand.

if you find a stuck rotor, momentarily open the bleeder on the stuck wheel. if it instanly frees up, you have a bad hose on that wheel.

if not, look for the other issues.

paper1122

It is most likely a stuck caliper as others have suggested. However, it could possibly be the master cylinder. I had a problem with one on an old van my wife used to have. Ended up replacing the entire system before I realized that it was the MC. Easiest way to tell if it is the caliper is to pull it off the car and try to push the piston back in. If you can push it back in by hand or with little force it is fine. If you need to get out a hammer.....

Billman250

With one hot wheel, I can assure you it is not the master cylinder.

s2kRae

Thanks for the input guys...Billman im going to try your test tomorrow since ill have off work....ill update the thread with the results...you guys are awsome..thanks for all the help so far..

ado

s2kRae I've got a similar situation and hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread, if so let me know and I'll start one on my own.

I recently replaced my brake fluid, bleeding all four corners. Afterward I went for a drive and noticed the BRAKE light won't go off. The brake fluid is slightly below the MAX line but definitely well above the MIN line. I've taken off the center console and checked the parking brake is indeed contacting the parking brake switch to open the circuit. With the car jacked up, in neutral, and parking brake off, all four wheels sound and feel like the brake pads are making contact with the rotors.

Does anyone know why the brake fluid change would have triggered this situation and how to fix it? Thanks.

Billman250

I'm not sure if the s2k has a proportioning valve. It senses a presure drop in one half of the system, and trips the light.

If it does, thats what your problem is.

Billman250

You can fix it by opening a bleeder on the side of the system with low pressure, while someone holds firmly on the brake.

Trial and error. have someone watch the light with the key on. open bleeder fast and close it. when the pressure equalizes, the guy holding the pedal will feel a small thud in the pedal and the light will go off.