cbender

As a follow-up to my earlier thread -- Liquid Oil Coolers: Anyone Used One? (Advice Needed) -- for which the URL is pasted below, I'm planning to install sensors for oil temperature and oil pressure and wire them into the AEM EMS (Torque Freaks has already confirmed that the EMS will be able to read the signals, so this effectively lets me datalog these variables along with everything else).

http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...43&pagenumber=2

My initial idea is to use the port which, for stock S2000s, serves as an access point for the oil pressure sending unit (located on the passenger's side of the block, at the front of the engine). In my car, there's already a brass t-fitting there to feed oil to the turbo.

Given what the oil pressure sending unit does, it seems a reasonable place for me to measure absolute oil pressure. Given that it's using oil already circulating in the block, it also seems a reasonable place to measure oil temperature.

First, does anyone have any thoughts/feedback/suggestions for whether this is a good idea. Second, does anyone know of a five-way fitting (one to connect to the engine and one for the oil pressure sending unit, oil line to the turbo, oil pressure sensor, and oil temperature sensor) that I can use for this? CJB80 turned me onto the following "manifold" but I haven't figured out whether it'll really work for us. Feedback/suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

http://forums.clubsi.com/photos/ordering_page.html

http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.php?Cat=...sb=5&o=&fpart=1

Thanks,
CB

__________________
C. Bender
2001 S2K Silver/Black
AEM EMS, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Wideband O2 Sensor; RC Engineering 550 Injectors; Turbonetics TO4B 60:1 Ball Bearing Turbo; Tial 46mm Wastegate and 50mm Blowoff Valve; GReddy EGT and Boost Warning Gauges; Upgraded Intake Fuel Pump; Oil Filter Relocation Kit with Stainless Steel Lines; Speedcraft Front Mounted Intercooler, Mandrel Bent Tubing, 3" Down Pipe, and 3" Stainless Exhaust; A'PEXi N1 Mufflers; Clutchmaster Stage 3 Clutch; Toda Lightweight Flywheel; Mugen Radiator Cap, Thermostat, and Fan Switch; Upgraded Oil Bolts; Spoon X-Brace; HeCash Brake Ducting; Competch Stainless Steel Brake Lines; WorkMeister S2R 18" Wheels; Lucid's Front and Rear Speakers; 2002 Stereo Head Unit; Rick's Front Badge; JDM Clear Side Markers; Muz Shift Knob; Uber Cool Nurburgring Decal

Slows2k

Here's is a pic of a greddy block adapter. It has 2 1/8npt ports I am using 1 port for a oil pressure gauge and the 2nd port for oil feed for a supercharger.(not in the pic) You could tap additional ports on the other side of the housing.



I need to correct this post. Today I finished up the install of my Vortech supercharger. Unfortunately, the second port of the greddy block on my car was NOT 1/8npt. I'm not certain what threads are in it, I didn't have the time to measure them, due to time contraints at the shop. I'm going to have to do some more research to identify the port's threads.

vapors2k

I have my oil temp sender in the oil pan. I've had a bung welded in there to accept the sender, however, you can get away with a sender that mounts into the factory drain plug hole which simplifies things (sender is standard 1/8" NPT that screws into an adapter that screws into the drain plug hole). I've always been more partial for oil temps in the pan as opposed to those in the block. There's a formula that dictates how much T increases with pressure, so if you tap the oil temp at the high pressure location, the chances are your oil temps should read higher than in the pan. Someone correct me on this if I'm wrong, it's been awhile since General Chem.

Do you have a line from the stock oil pressure location extending from the block where it's T'd off at a safer location? It helps to reduce the mass on the soft alum threads in the block as they strip very easily. Sorry if you're already done that. I have my oil pressure sender also located in this spot with a T that is away from the block connected with a line.

emc2

The GReddy unit is a nice piece but will not be an option for Cbender. The turbo will not allow that adapter to work which is why they need to relocate the oil filter on most (I think all) turbo kits for S2000.

Cbender - On the relocation adapter that came with the kit, it has an in/out on both sides. You only use one side with the other side having plugs in it....correct? You could remove the "out" plug on the right side and place the temp sensor there. It might read a couple degree's cooler since the oil filter itself acts slightly like a radiator due to the surface area but shouldn't be far off the actual oil temp. It would be an easy install and if you want to remove it after you do your tests all you would have to do is put the plug back in. Just an idea

cbender

CJB80 sent me this PM about the "oil manifold" which I found helpful, so I thought I'd post it so others can see what he had to say about this....

CJB80 wrote on 11-07-03 09:18PM: Yeah, I purchased one, and it will work. Basically it comes with all the plugs to block off the 1/4 NPT holes. Then you need a 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT bushing. Then you stick the temp sensor in the side, so it goes down the length of the aluminium block (aka "manifold"). Then you hook up the feed to one of the 1/8" holes, the stock pressure sensor goes on there, your greddy pressure sensor, and turbo oil feed. This leaves 2 holes open still! You will probably have to put the stock pressure sensor in one of the 1/4" NPT holes and use a bushing because of how wide it is, but I haven't verified that...

-- CBender

cbender

If CJB is right -- and he's scoped this "oil manifold" out but not yet installed it, I think -- then it seems *easiest* to buy the part and install it where the oil pressure sending unit is already mounted. It's accessible. It's already being used to support the turbo, as well as the stock oil pressure sending switch, so adding two more sensors shouldn't create any new problems. While pressure can add to temperature, I'd guess that we're not talking about enough pressure to give a wildly inaccurate reading (and it will read consistently).

I'm reluctant to use the lines going to the oil filter relocation kit because those fittings are really big, and I'm not sure where to find the hardware necessary to support adding two sensors to them. I'm also reluctant to tap a hole into the pan if there's another, easier place to mount these two sensors or to use the factory drain plug (for fear that some bozo doing an oil change will muck up the sensor).

EMC, I'm planning to leave both sensors permanently wired into the EMS, so there's no advantage to the easily-removed solution.

Based on Vapor's concerns about the softness of the metal, maybe it makes sense to run a short line from the oil pressure sending unit port to the the strut tower and to mount the "oil manifold" there. From there, I can feed all the devices -- oil pressure sending unit, oil pressure sensor, oil temp. sensor, and oil line to the turbo -- from a secure mounting location.

Thoughts?
CB

davepk

That sounds like a reasonable way to go. The less stuff hanging from the port on the block the better. Personally, I'd leave the oem sender in the stock port to keep from messing with the OEM wire harness. Then, i'd tap everything else off the relocation mount as emc2 suggests. Any HW store will have the NPT fittings you need to accomadate your needs. This is very similar to what i have setup. An oil temp sensor mounted in a brass TEE with -12AN fittings on either end, sitting on the output of my relocated oil filter before it goes into the cooler. I imagine that the measured temps are hotter than the oil pan temps but its more the changes in temp i'm concerned about and the overall range of the temps.

cbender

In order to keep things as simple as possible, what do you think of the idea of leaving the existing t-fitting (for the oil pressure sending unit) in place, and instead of running the other end of it to the turbo, running it to the strut tower brace? There, I could mount the "oil manifold" to feed the turbo as well as connect sensors to measure temperature and pressure.

That (i) eliminates the need to hang things off the block, (ii) eliminates the need to buy anything more than the oil manifold-thingie, mounting hardware, and a new stainless steel line to connect the oil manifold to the t-fitting, and (iii) makes the plumbing of the oil cooler/radiator pretty simple, as I won't have to do anything more than run one new line from the filter to the cooler?

Also, I'm wondering if you can actually measure oil pressure from the pan? Doesn't oil simply drain back into the pan so it's unpressurized? If that's true (sorry for the ignorance), then I can't measure *both* pressure and temperature from the pan, which leads me to think the above approach accomplishes both objectives using the same hardware.

CB

vapors2k

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cbender

Based on Vapor's concerns about the softness of the metal, maybe it makes sense to run a short line from the oil pressure sending unit port to the the strut tower and to mount the "oil manifold" there.

Slows2k

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