Oil Suggestion
02-04-2011, 10:30 AM
#41
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Originally Posted by 05BBs2k,Jan 28 2011, 02:41 PM
I use Amsoil Signature Series 0w-30 with an Amsoil filter and i love it. First time i switched to amsoil from the crap that was in it when i bought the car i was amazed just how much better it ran and idled. And my valvetrain is more quiet on startup with the 0w. I paid the 20 bucks on Amsoils website to be a preferred customer so it is about 7 bucks a quart. Plus i am fairly close to the warehouse so it only takes a day to get it
02-04-2011, 10:18 PM
#42
Originally Posted by Mr._ap1,Jan 28 2011, 07:30 AM
Additionally, you would be surprised what petroleum-based product actually works the best in that type of test: brake cleaner! Yes - brake cleaner actually produces the best results for the "Timken" test. So this example shows that RP works only slightly worse than brake cleaning fluid... Yikes?!?!
Bottom line (read my other posts - there are no shortage of them) - Royal Purple is crap in street driven cars. RP is all hype and marketing. It is NOT well suited for street cars and is not designed with engine longevity in mind.
It may possibly give you a millisecond or so advantage in a true professional race... in a race car that has its engine rebuilt every race. However, RP is not designed for real world cars and street driving conditions. The company does not back their product either (personal experience).
Amsoil 10W30 (ATM) is what I use (see my previous posts for specifics), and I sometimes use Amsoil (full synthetic) 5W30 in colder climates. This car needs the serious additives that still are produced in Amsoil's full synthetic 10W30 (and 5W30) oil(s). Other modern oils are designed to protect emission control systems as much as the engine. The S2000 doesn't require this diversion of protection. Some 0W30 and 5W40 oils do not have the anti-wear properties Amsoil's 10W30 and (to a lesser extent) 5W30 bring to the table. Therefore - stick with what this car needs to live on forever.
02-05-2011, 03:37 AM
#44
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slipstream444 Posted on Feb 5 2011, 08:18 AM
Hmm.... 
Comparing any oil on the market today with the API-SJ oil recommended in my 1999 manual , I guess whatever modern, enviroment protective, tree hugging oil
you buy now is way better than that 1999 stuff.
Btw.. what are those serious additives you think you really need?
ZDDP?
C'mon.. you know better.
The F20/F22 doesn't have flat tapped cams / lifters.
This car needs the serious additives that still are produced in Amsoil's full synthetic 10W30 (and 5W30) oil(s). Other modern oils are designed to protect emission control systems as much as the engine.
Comparing any oil on the market today with the API-SJ oil recommended in my 1999 manual , I guess whatever modern, enviroment protective, tree hugging oil
you buy now is way better than that 1999 stuff.Btw.. what are those serious additives you think you really need?
ZDDP?
C'mon.. you know better.
The F20/F22 doesn't have flat tapped cams / lifters.
02-18-2011, 06:15 AM
#45
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UPDATE* I just changed my oil with full synthetic 5w30 Amsoil and a left over Royal Purple filter. I must say that the car runs better, but then I was already due for an oil change so we'll see later down the road!
02-18-2011, 03:30 PM
#47
Originally Posted by Mr._ap1,Feb 1 2011, 11:15 AM
A owners manual didn't come with the car when I purchased it. I'd like to see results from the testing done with RP. A follow through with us would be great. Oh Thanks Brian for the PM, that really help me understand that and I probably wasn't seaching in the right place on the site.
02-19-2011, 06:19 PM
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A couple posts I agree with:
”Big no no on the RP, they put some food coloring in a diluted mid grade synthetic oil and call it the best stuff on the block.”
”RP is all hype and marketing.”
I have always disliked this brand since they were selling synthetic blends (PAO + mineral oil) and calling it a 100% synthetic. That's really scummy. The brand is all about the kewl purple color ... which is a thermally unstable dye that disappears after mere minutes at operating temp.
On the other hand, I don't think it's actually harmful, although in one daily-driver application (a wife's Honda Civic), I saw it thin out dangerously quickly. I've seen it produce some good UOAs ... but then again, those engines (Subaru 4-cyl boxers come to mind) produced good UOAs with just about any oil.
Last I knew, the RP filter is made by Champion Labs ... which makes the Mobil 1 filters, Walmart Supertech filters and a few others. Again, no big deal. Even if price were no consideration, it would not make my top 5 list of filters to use.
I'm also not a fan of regular Mobil 1 with their thin add-pack. If you like Mobil oils (their PAO base oil is good) then please use the "EP" or "High Mileage" versions of their oils. They are typically formulated a tad thicker and/or have a more potent add-pack than the regular stuff.
As at least one other poster chimed in, I am very happy with Pennzoil Platinum ... which is a reasonably-priced, Group III synthetic with a tremendous add-pack (very good at dealing with fuel dilution). I will also use others brands for reasonable drain intervals, I'm not really that picky.
PS: The benefit of a 0W-30 over a 5W-30 or 10W-30 is start up temp. However, with many oils, the difference is made up using viscosity index improvers which may not be very shear stable ... leading to an oil that can break down prematurely with hard use.
”Big no no on the RP, they put some food coloring in a diluted mid grade synthetic oil and call it the best stuff on the block.”
”RP is all hype and marketing.”
I have always disliked this brand since they were selling synthetic blends (PAO + mineral oil) and calling it a 100% synthetic. That's really scummy. The brand is all about the kewl purple color ... which is a thermally unstable dye that disappears after mere minutes at operating temp.
On the other hand, I don't think it's actually harmful, although in one daily-driver application (a wife's Honda Civic), I saw it thin out dangerously quickly. I've seen it produce some good UOAs ... but then again, those engines (Subaru 4-cyl boxers come to mind) produced good UOAs with just about any oil.
Last I knew, the RP filter is made by Champion Labs ... which makes the Mobil 1 filters, Walmart Supertech filters and a few others. Again, no big deal. Even if price were no consideration, it would not make my top 5 list of filters to use.
I'm also not a fan of regular Mobil 1 with their thin add-pack. If you like Mobil oils (their PAO base oil is good) then please use the "EP" or "High Mileage" versions of their oils. They are typically formulated a tad thicker and/or have a more potent add-pack than the regular stuff.
As at least one other poster chimed in, I am very happy with Pennzoil Platinum ... which is a reasonably-priced, Group III synthetic with a tremendous add-pack (very good at dealing with fuel dilution). I will also use others brands for reasonable drain intervals, I'm not really that picky.
PS: The benefit of a 0W-30 over a 5W-30 or 10W-30 is start up temp. However, with many oils, the difference is made up using viscosity index improvers which may not be very shear stable ... leading to an oil that can break down prematurely with hard use.